Publications  of  the  California  Historical  Survey  Commission 


Edited  by 

Owen  C.  Coy,  Ph.D. 

Director  of  the  Commission 


11308 


Frontispiece.     Ruins  of  San  Carlos  about   1865. 

This  photo  by  Johnson  is  the  earliest  photograph  at  hand.  This  is  seen  by  the  remains  of  the 
wall  against  the  facade  of  the  church,  the  condition  of  the  roof  over  the  chapel,  and  the  ruins  in  the 
rear  to  the  left. 


THE  ARCHITECTURAL  HISTORY 


OF 


Mission  San  Carlos  Borromeo 


CALIFORNIA 


BY 

Frances  Rand  Smith 


Published  by  the 

California  Historical  Survey  Commission 


BERKELEY,  1921 


COPYRIGHT 
CALIFORNIA  HISTORICAL  SURVEY  COMMISSION 
1921 


C.AI.lFOItXIA  STATU  PFtlNTING  OITICE 
SACItAMHNTO.  1021 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL.  ' 

To  His  Excellency,  William  D.  Stephens,  Governor, 
Sacramento,  California. 

Sir:  Herewith  is  presented  The  Architectural  History  of  Mission  San 
Carlos  Borromeo,  tiie  first  of  a  projected  series  dealing  with  the  architectural 
history  of  the  Spanish  missions  of  CaHfornia,  the  work  being  undertaken 
under  the  statutes  prescribing  the  duties  of  the  Commission. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

CALIFORNIA  HISTORICAL  SURVEY  COMMISSION, 

John  F.  Davis,  Chairman, 
Herbert  E.  Bolton, 
Edward  A.  Dickson, 
Owen  C.  Coy,  Director. 
Berkeley,  California,  August  15,  1921. 


2—11303 


EDITOR'S  PREFACE 

This  volume  is  the  first  of  a  projected  series  relating  to  the  architectural 
history  of  the  Spanish  missions  of  California.  The  work  was  undertaken  by 
the  Historical  Survey  Commission  under  a  statute  of  1917  (Statutes,  1917. 
Chap.  410),  defining  its  duties  to  be  among  other  things  "to  investigate  and 
acquire  information  as  to  the  physical  characteristics  of  the  several  missions 
which  were  maintained  in  the  State  of  California  under  the  charge  of  the 
Franciscan  fathers." 

For  many  years  Mrs.  Frances  Rand  Smith  of  Palo  Alto  had  lieen  engaged 
in  the  study  of  the  old  California  missions  and  she  already  had  copious 
notes,  sketches,  photographs  and  models  of  several  of  the  missions.  The 
commission  therefore  sought  her  cooperation  in  this  work  and  during  the 
summer  of  1918  obtained  from  her  the  manuscript,  sketches  and  photographs 
which  form  the  basis  for  this  report.  Since  that  time  the  author  and  the 
commission  have  been  busily  engaged  in  revising,  elaborating,  and  perfecting 
the  original  manuscript. 

In  accordance  with  the  terms  of  the  act  a  public  hearing  was  held  at 
Carmel,  October  31,  1918,  at  which  time  the  details  of  this  report  were  care- 
fidly  gone  over  by  the  many  persons  assembled  who  represented  the  Church, 
historical  and  landmarks  societies,  and  many  others.  Many  interesting  points 
were  developed. but  no  material  additions  to  the  information  or  adverse  criti- 
cism of  the  findings  of  the  commission  were  offered. 

Subsequent  excavations  carried  on  by  Father  Raymond  M.  Alestres,  in 
charge  of  the  parish  in  which  San  Carlos  Mission  is  located,  brought  to  light 
much  valuable  data  and  a  wealth  of  detail  regarding  the  mission  buildings. 
These  excavations  together  with  continued  historical  research  and  the  gath- 
ering of  additional  photographs  has  made  it  possible  for  the  commission  to 
supplement  materially  the  original  text. 

In  a  work  of  this  character,  where  the  official  historical  records  and  the 
archeological  remains  are  not  complete  but  must  be  supplemented  by  other 
less  reliable  data,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  clearly  in  mind  the  varying  degrees 
of  reliability  of  the  evidence  presented.  At  least  three  classes  of  informa- 
tion have  been  used  in  this  work  First,  the  archeological  remains  as  seen 
in  the  buildings  and  ruins  now  extant.  In  so  far  as  these  remains  can  be 
identified  as  parts  of  the  mission  before  the  time  of  secularization  they  are 
the  most  valuable  data  to  be  obtained  as  to  form,  material,  and  dimension. 
Second,  there  are  the  written  records.  These  vary  in  reliability  from 
the  official  contemporary  records  of  the  padres  and  the  detailed  descrip- 
tions of  more  or  less  accurate  observations  of  scientific  explor- 
ers, as  Laperouse,  Vancouver,  Du  Petit-Thouars  and  others,  to  the  less 
definite  and  unreliable  accounts.    Third,  the  pictorial  representations  of  the 


missions  as  shown  by  sketches,  survey-plats,  and  photographs.  The  reHa- 
bihty  of  these  last  classes  increases  in  the  order  named.  For  San  Carlos 
three  sketches  made  by  foreign  voyagers  antedate  the  time  of  the  photo- 
graphs :  one  by  Sykes,  made  about  1794;  one  by  \\m.  Smythe.  probably  made 
in  1823  ;  and  the  other  published  bv  Laplace  in  the  account  of  his  voyage 
alongf  the  California  coast  in  1839.  They  all  possess  great  value  but  are 
merely  the  artist's  description,  their  accuracy  depending  directly  upon  the 
degree  of  faithfulness  with  which  he  represented  the  scene  before  him.  It  is 
probable  that  in  some  cases  merely  rude  pencil  sketches  were  the  only  definite 
record  made  upon  the  spot,  much  of  the  detail  being  added  during  the  many 
leisure  hours  upon  shipboard.  It  is  therefore  not  remarkable  that  many 
points  may  be  found  in  these  sketches  which  cause  difficulty  in  interpreta- 
tion. The  photographs,  which  first  appear  during  the  sixties,  are  free  from 
this  criticism  and  preserve  for  us  most  valuable  information  of  what  still 
remained  of  these  old  landmarks.  Of  particular  value  are  the  views  of  John- 
son, ]\Iuybridge,  Perkins,  \\'atkins  and  Fiske. 

For  aid  in  the  prosecution  of  this  work  the  commission  wishes  to  express  its 
appreciation  to  His  Grace  the  Most  Reverend  Edward  J.  Hanna,  Archbishop 
of  San  Francisco,  and  the  Right  Reverend  J.  J.  Cantwell,  Bishop  of  Mon- 
terey and  Los  Angeles,  for  their  cordial  support  and  assistance ;  to  Monsignor 
Joseph  M.  Gleason  of  Palo  Alto;  to  Reverend  Thomas  L.  0"Xeill  of  Berke- 
ley, who  kindly  gave  much  assistance  and  valuable  advice ;  and  especially 
does  it  appreciate  the  help  of  Father  Raymond  M.  ]Mestres  of  Monterey, 
whose  excavations  have  enabled  the  commission  to  incorporate  into  this 
report  much  valuable  material  which  otherwise  would  have  been  inacces- 
sible. Gratitude  is  due  the  authorities  in  charge  of  the  Bancroft  Collection 
for  the  data  contained  in  the  valuable  transcripts  made  by  Bancroft  from 
the  original  archives,  many  of  which  have  subsequently  been  destroyed. 
Mr.  C.  B,  Turrill  has  furnished  copies  for  several  excellent  illustrations. 
From  the  State  Library  through  Miss  Endora  Garroutte  and  Mr.  H.  C. 
Peterson  manv  valuable  photographs  have  been  obtained,  especially  those 
taken  by  C.  W.  J.  Johnson,  now  belonging  to  the  Frances  M.  Hilby  Collec- 
tion of  the  State  Library.  From  Mrs.  Ivy  Perkins  Cercle  of  San  Francisco 
were  obtained  the  views  taken  by  her  father,  Mr.  Perkins,  the  original  nega- 
tives subsequently  having  been  placed  in  the  State  Library.  Valuable 
criticism  and  advice  regarding  architectural  features  were  obtained  from 
Mr.  Bernard  Maybeck  and  the  School  of  Architecture  of  the  University  of 
California.  Mr.  ]>.  S.  Mayne  assisted  in  observations  at  the  mission  and 
worked  into  form  for  reproduction  many  of  the  illustrations  contained  in 
this  report.  It  scarcely  need  be  added  that  all  students  of  the  California 
missions  are  constantly  indcbtetl  to  Father  Zephyrin  F.ngelhardt  for  his 
scholarly  works. 

]\Iuch  historical  data  has  purposely  been  eliminated  because  this  study  is 
limited  closely  to  the  "physical  characteristics"  of  the  mission.  On  the  other 
hand  the  architectural  study  might  have  been  made  more  elaborate  in  detail 


had  (lur  resources  been  less  limited.  If  this  data  is  incomplete  in  ~ome  par- 
ticular it  is  believed  to  be  all  thai  may  be  incorporated  with  a  satisfactory 
historical  basis  at  present.  In  view  of  the  fact  that  the  greatest  number  of 
readers  will  be  neither  technically  trained  historians  nor  architects  an 
endeavor  has  been  made  to  avoid  an  undue  amount  of  technical  language 
or  detail  in  either  field. 

The  actual  restoration  of  these  mission  structures  is  not  within  the  prov- 
ince of  this  commission.  What  is  here  presented  is  set  forth  in  the  hope  that 
it  may  be  of  assistance  to  those  so  engaged,  and  with  the  feeling  that  it  will 
furnish  much  useful  data  to  that  larger  group  of  general  readers  interested 

in  studying  California  mission  architecture. 

OwEx  C.  Coy 
Berkeley,  California,  June  15,  1921. 


AUTHOR'S  PREFACE 

For  assistance  in  the  prosecution  and  completion  of  the  present  work  the 
writer's  thanks  are  due  especially  to  Professor  Herbert  E.  Bolton,  for  his 
personal  aid  and  encouragement;  to  Dr.  Owen  C.  Coy,  for  his  skillful  as- 
sistance in  investigations  at  the  mission  and  his  unfailing  guidance  in  biblio- 
graphic studies  and  preparation  of  the  text ;  to  the  Reverend  Monsignor 
Joseph  Gleason,  for  generous  contributions  from  his  library  and  store  of 
personal  knowledge  of  mission  history;  to  Mr.  Chas.  B.  Turrill,  for  his 
contribution  of  many  pictures  of  historical  value ;  to  Mr.  L.  S.  Slevin,  for  the 
use  of  his  collections  of  old  pictures  and  his  zeal  in  securing  new  ones.  The 
cordial  aid  of  these  and  many  other  friends  has  lightened  the  labor  which  has 
lasted  through  the  years  since  1908,  when  this  study  was  begun.  The  writer 
hopes  that  it  may  be  a  modest  tribute  to  the  achievements  of  the  pious  padres 

who  founded  our  earliest  settlements. 

Frances  Rand  Smith. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

Page 

Editor's  preface  7 

Author's  preface   11 

List  of  illustrations 14 

Historical  Xarkative 

The  founding  of  the  mission,  1770 17 

The  question  of  a  new  site 17 

Removal  to  Carmel  Valley,  1771 18 

Erection  of  missinii  Ijuildings 20 

Deaths  of  fathers  Crespi  and  Serra 21 

San  Carlos  visited  Ijy  Laperouse.  1786 2Z 

Stone  church  erected,  1793-97 23 

Vancouver  at  San  Carlos 24 

The  quarters  of  the  neophytes,  18U0 28 

The  mission  quadrangle 31 

Erection  of  the  "Via  Crucis,"  1820 31 

Secularization  of  the  mission 31 

San  Carlos  in  ruins,  1836-1841 U 

Under  American  control 34 

Title  conhrmeJ  to  the  church,  1859 n 

Later  descriptions  and  photographs 37 

Mission  restoration 41 

Architectl-ral  Features 

The  lirst  structures,  1771-1773 45 

Other  buildings,   1774 45 

The  adobe  church 45 

The  stone  church , 51 

Interior  of  the  church 52 

The  mission  quadrangle 58 

The  mission  bells 72 

The  burial  ground 72 

Bibliography — 

Printed  works 77 

Manuscript  material 78 

Index 79 


3—1 J  308 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Frontispiece.     Ruins  of  San  Carlos  about  1865.     Johnson.  Page 

Plate  1.     Forest  of  Monterey  pines.     Moran 25 

2.  San  Carlos  :Mission,  1794.     Sykes 26 

3.  San  Carlos  Mission,  1823.     Smythe 29 

4.  San  Carlos  Mission,  1839.     Laplace 29 

5.  "Alemany  Plat"  of  San  Carlos  Mission,  1854 30 

6.  Plat  of  San  Carlos  grant,  1858 35 

7.  Ruins  of  San  Carlos  about  1870.     Muybridgfe 36 

8.  Restoration  of  San  Carlos  Mission,  Oriana  Day,  1884 36 

9.  San  Carlos  church  before  1880.     Watkins 39 

10.     San  Carlos  church  about  1882.     Fiske 39 

U.     San  Carlos  church  about  1883.     Johnson 40 

12.  San  Carlos  church  after  restoration  of  1884.     Johnson 40 

13.  Ground  plan  of  church.     Smith 47 

14.  Front  elevation  of  church.     Smith 48 

15.  Rear  elevation  of  church.     Smith 48 

16.  Side  elevation  of  churcli     1.     Smith 49 

17.  Side  elevation  of  church  11.     Smith 50 

18.  Cross  section  of  church.     Smith 53 

19.  Ruined  interior.     Brown 53 

20.  Pilasters  supporting  arches.     Smith 54 

21.  Ruins  of  interior  before  1880.     Perkins 54 

22.  Stone  arch  supporting  lialcony.     Smith 55 

23.  Star  window 55 

24.  Entrance  to  church.     Smith 56 

25.  Entrance  to  baptistry.     Smith -^9 

26.  Entrance  to  chapel.     Smith 59 

27.  Piaptistry  window.     Slevin 60 

28.  Chapel  window.     Slevin 60 

29.  Window  detail.     Smith 61 

30.  Side  entrance  to  cluirch.     Slevin 62 

31.  Detail  of  side  eiurancc  to  church.     Smith 62 

32.  Plaque - 63 

33.  Wood  carving 63 

34.  Entrance  to  sacristy.     Smith 64 

35.  'Sandstone  lavabo  in  sacristy 64 

36.  Mound  of  ruins,  January,  1920.     Coy 67 

37.  Excavated  ruins,  April,  1921.     Coy 67 

38-40.     E.xcavatcd  ruins,  April.  1921.     Coy 68 

41.  Ruins  of  San  Carlos  Mission  about  1880.     Fiske 69 

42.  Ruins  of  mission  iiuadrangle,  January,  1921.     Slevin 70 

43.  Ruins  of  mission  quadrangle,  1908.     Slevin 70 

44.  Ground  plan  of  Mission  San  Carlos.     Smith 73 

45.  Survey  of  San  Carlos  Mission,  1921.     Coy 75 


HISTORICAL  NARRATIVE 


HISTORICAL  NARRATIVE 

Mission  San  Carlos  Borromeo  was  fovnuk-d  on  June  3,  1770,  by  Father 
Junipero  Scrra.  The  first  site  was  on  the  shore  of  Monterey  Bay,  near  tlie 
spot  where  \'izcaino  landed,  and  where  the  Carmelite  friars  said  mass  "in  the 
shadow  of  a  large  oak  tree,  some  of  whose  branches  reached  the  water." 
I'ortohi,  who  had  explored  the  site  the  previous  year,  took  formal  possession 
of  the  port  on  the  date  mentioned  and  was  present  at  the  founding  of  the 
mission.  The  historic  ceremony  is  described  by  Father  Serra  in  a  contem- 
porary letter  as  follows  :^ 

"On  the  holy  day  of  Pentecost,  the  3rd  of  June,  after  having  gathered  together  all 
the  officers  of  sea  and  land  and  all  the  rest  of  the  people  by  the  side  of  the  little  ravine 
and  oak  where  the  Fathers  of  that  other  expedition  [Vizcaino]  had  held  their  celebra- 
tion, an  altar  was  erected,  the  bells  were  htuig  up  and  rung,  the  hymn  Veni  Creator 
was  sung  and  the  water  blessed,  and  finally  a  large  cross  was  erected  and  the  royal 
standard  set  up.  I  then  sang  the  first  Mass  which  we  suppose  has  been  celebrated 
here  since  that  long  ago,  and  then  we  sang  the  Hail  to  Our  Lady  before  the  image  of 
our  Most  Illustrious  Queen  which  occupied  the  altar.  After  that  I  preached  a  sermon 
to  the  assembled  people.  After  the  service  had  been  concluded  with  the  Te  Deiim  the 
officers  performed  the  ceremony  of  taking  formal  possession  of  the  land  in  the  name 
of  the  King,  our  lord  (whom  may  God  keep).  We  afterwards  ate  our  dinner  together 
under  a  shade  on  the  beach.  The  whole  service  had  been  accompanied  with  much 
thunder  of  powder  both  on  l;ind  and  from  the  ship.  To  God  alone  be  given  all  the 
honor  and  glory." 

Father  Crespi,  who  was  associated  with  Serra  in  the  administration  of 
the  mission,  described  its  founding  in  the  following  words  :- 

"On  the  same  day  of  Pentecost,  Jnne  3rd.  .  .  .  the  Rev.  Fr.  Presidente  of  the 
missions,  Fr.  Junipero  Serra,  in  the  name  of  the  king  and  of  the  Rev.  Fr.  Guardian  and 
the  venerable  Discretory  of  the  Apostolic  College  of  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith,  of 
San  Fernando  de  Mexico,  established  the  new  mission  under  the  title  of  San  Carlos 
Borromeo.  Naming  as  principal  patron  of  the  new  church  the  most  holy  Patriarch  St. 
Joseph,  he  took  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  the  said  colleg'e,  and  assigned  as  his 
fellow  missionary  Fr.  Juan  Crespi,  his  disciple  in  philosophy." 

Temporary  buildings  were  erected  for  the  presidio.  An  enclosure  made 
of  branches  and  trees  and  provided  with  an  altar  served  temporarily  as  a 
church.  Soon  a  small  chapel  was  built,  together  with  the  living  quarters  for 
the  padres  and  the  necessary  workshops.    All  was  surrounded  by  a  stockade.^ 

Tlic  Question  of  a  Nczv  Site.  Soon  after  the  founding  of  the  mission 
Father  Serra  became  dissatisfied  with  its  location.  He  therefore  petitioned 
the  proper  authorities  to  be  permitted  to  remove  the  mission  from  the  site 
on  Monterev  Bai,'  to  the  vallev  of  the  Carmel  River  about  a  league  distant 


'Palou,  Rciacion  Iiistorica  clc  la  vida  y  at^nstolicas  tarcas  del  venerable  f^atire  Fray  Junipero  Scrra 
(1787  ed."),  101-102.  Hereafter  cited  as  "Vida."  For  translation  see  James  edition,  p.  98.  See  also 
Kngelliardt.  The  Missions  and  Missionaries  of  California,  II.  74-7.S,  for  translation  from  Crespi's 
account  in  Palou,  Noticias  de  la  Neuva  California   (San  Francisco,  1874),  II,  268-269. 

=Engelhardt,  II,  77,  78. 

=Palou,  Noticias.  II,  271-272:    Vida,  103. 

17 


l8  ARCHITFXTrRAL    HISTORY 

across  the  peninsula.  As  the  reason  for  this  request  he  explained  that 
there  was  but  little  arable  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  port  and  that  running 
water  for  purposes  of  irrigation  was  entirely  lacking.  Another  reason 
doubtless  strong  in  the  mind  of  Father  Serra  was  to  provide  a  greater  dis- 
tance between  the  mission  Indians  and  the  soldiers  of  the  presidio.*  The 
proposed  location  held  all  of  these  advantages  over  the  one  already  selected, 
for  the  vallev  possessed  much  fertile  land  for  cultivation  and  the  river  could 
furnish  all  the  water  needed  for  irrigation. 

Removal  to  Caniwl  Valley,  i/J'i-  In  response  to  the  petition  of  Fr.  Serra, 
the  \lceroy  granted  the  permit  to  remove  the  mission  to  the  Carmel  River 
at  such  place  as  Serra  might  select,"  and  also  as  a  personal  donation  sent  a 
set  of  vestments  consisting  of  chasuble  and  dahnaties,  which  were  to  be 
used  on  solemn  occasions.''  In  June,  as  soon  as  the  order  had  been  received 
from  the  Mceroy  granting  permission  for  the  removal,  Serra  set  out  for 
Carmel  ^'alley  to  select  the  site  and  make  ready  for  the  removal  of  the 
mission.  Leaving  at  that  place  several  Lower  California  Indians  under  the 
charge  of  three  marines  and  five  soldiers  to  cut  and  prepare  timbers,  Serra 
hastened  to  found  a  mission  later  known  as  San  Antonio  de  Padua."  Return- 
ing to  Carmel  ^'a^ey  he  found  the  work  progressing  too  slowly  to  suit  his 
desires,  so  he  took  up  his  abode  at  the  new  mission  site  on  the  first  of 
August,  1 7/1.  Since  the  Indians  and  soldiers  had  already  provided  an 
amount  of  wood  and  timbers.  Father  Serra  set  about  the  construction  of 
the  necessary  buildings,  he  himself  acting  as  "engineer  and  overseer."  His 
first  work  was  to  have  hewn  out  a  great  cross,  which  after  being  consecrated 
was  raised  and  fi.xed  in  the  ground  al:)Out  the  center  of  the  area  determined 
for  the  mission.  Near  at  hand  stood  a  hut  in  which  he  lived  and  another 
which  served  provisionally  as  a  church. - 

Palou  gives  the  following  more  detailed  accouni.  of  the  removal  of  the 
Mission  :'■' 

"As  soon  as  the  Mission  of  San  Antonio  had  been  founded,  the  revere:id  padre  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Royal  Presidio  of  Monterey,  and  altliough  he  eagerly  desired  to  go,  and 
found  another  mission,  San  Luis  Obispo,  it  was  not  possible  on  account  of  a  lack  of 
soldiers  for  a  guard,  and  so  he  assisted  in  removing  the  mission  as  His  Excellency  had 
ordered:  for  this  purpose  it  was  arranged  that  Fray  Juan  Crespi  and  the  ministers  des- 
tined for  San  Luis  should  remain  in  the  Royal  Presidio,  and  the  reverend  padre  de- 
termined to  proceed  to  tlie  place  on  llie  Carmel,  wliich  had  been  desiennted,  to  plan 

*Palon,  Xoticias,  II,  286;  Engclhardt,  Missions  and  Missionaries,  11,  81;  Bancroft,  History  of 
California,  I,  177. 

■"'I)f  Croix  to  Pages.  Nov.  12.  1770.  in  Archircs  of  California,  Provincial  State  Pal^'rs,  I,  70 
(Bancroft  Collection,  ms.) 

"Kngclharrlt.  II.  84. 

'/bill,  II.  87:  Bancroft,  I,  177,  based  on  Palou,  Vida,  121;  (James  cd.),  115-116;  Paloii,  ,\'olicias, 
II,  289.  This  was  the  first  use  of  these  extensive  forests  for  construction  purposes  of  which  there  is 
at  hand  any  record. 

"Palou,  Vida,  128;  (James  cd.),  124.  "L,a  primera  obra  que  mando  hacer  fue  una  grande  Cruz, 
que  bendita,  enarbolo  (ayudado  de  los  Soldados  y  Sirvientes)  y  fixo  en  la  niediania  del  tranio  destinado 
para  compas,  que  cslaba  enmediato  a  la  Barraca  de  su  habitacion,  y  otra  que  servia  dc  intcrina 
Iglt-sia,  siendo  su  compania  y  todas  sus  delicias  aquella  sagrada  .Senal.  .\dorabala  luego  que  anianecia. 
y  cantaba  la  Tropa  el  .Mabado,  y  delante  de  ella  rezaba  el  Sicrvo  de  Dios  Maytines  y  Prima,  c 
ininediatanienle  celeiiraba  el  Santo  .Sacrificio  de  la  Misa.  a  que  asisliaii  todos  lo9  Soldados  y  Mozos. 
Despues  comcnzaban  todos  su  trabajo,  cada  uno  en  su  (lestino,  siendo  Ingeniero  y  Sobrcstante  de  la 
obra  el  \'.  Padre,  quien  muchas  veccs  al  dia  adoraba  la  Santa  Cruz,  rezando  delante  de  ella  el 
oficio  Divino. " 

"Palou,  Notiaas,  II,  291-294.  '*Luego  dc  concluida  la  fundacion  de  la  mision  de  San  Antonio 
(I<-    l*nrlt,:i   paso  al  real  presidio  dc  Monterey  el   reverendo   padre  presidente,   y   aunque  dcscaba  con 


MISSION'    SAN    CARI/)S  IQ 

and  promote  tlie  work  ol  the  church  aiul  dwellings.  With  this  purpose  in  view  he 
journeyed  to  the  banks  of  tlie  Carmel,  the  first  of  August  of  the  said  year,  1771,  accom- 
panied by  tlie  five  soldiers. 

"The  three  sailors  and  four  California  Indians,  assisted  by  the  soldiers,  had  already 
cut  timbers.  Work  waj5  begun,  and  soon  a  small  chapel  was  erected  together  with  living 
quarters  of  four  rooms,  a  large  room  for  a  granary,  and  also  a  house  to  be  used  as  a 
dwelling  and  kitchen  for  the  boys.  All  were  of  wood  and  had  flat  roofs  and  were  en- 
closed in  a  good  stockade.  In  the  corner  of  the  square  there  was  a  house,  also  with 
a  flat  roof,  for  the  soldiers,  and  near,  some  corrals  for  the  cattle  and  stock.  As  the 
workers  were  few,  and  progress  could  not  be  rapid  because  all  the  tools  and  utensils 
were  in  the  old  mission  joining  the  Royal  Presidio,  work  was  not  finished  and  the  re- 
moval was  not  completed  until  the  last  of  December  of  the  said  year  of  71,  in  which 
year  all  was  moved,  the  two  ministers  of  the  mission  remaining  to  say  mass  at  the 
Royal  Presidio  until  establishment  of  the  new  mission  was  entirely  completed. 

"After  its  removal  the  mission  of  San  Carlos  was  in  a  pleasant  location,  situated  on 
a  hill  with  a  view  over  an  extensive  plain,  which  promises  abundant  crops.  It  ex- 
tends along  the  Carmel  River  whose  waters  flow  all  the  year,  for  although  in  dry  seasons 
the  water  is  not  very  plentiful,  in  rainy  seasons  no  crossing  can  be  found.  The  plain 
has  many  trees,  willow,  and  other  kinds,  blackberry  bushes,  and  quantities  of  Castillian 
roses.  Near  by  on  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  is  a  good  lake  with  so  much  water, 
especially  in  rainy  seasons,  that  its  banks  cannot  hold  all  that  it  receives  from  the  hills, 
and  at  such  times  the  water  runs  off  in  a  large  ditch  to  the  sea,  which  is  at  a  distance  of 
little  more  than  two  gun  shots,  in  a  little  bay  south  of  the  Punta  de  Pinos ;  but  in  dry 
seasons  the  lake  holds  a  quantity  of  good  water,  and  has  some  springs.  In  rainy  seasons, 
a  dam  formed  in  part  by  the  hill  extending  across  the  lake  makes  it  easy  to  retain 
enough  water  for  all  irrigating  purposes  on  the  plain. 

"The  mission  is  surrounded  by  small  hills  with  good  pastures  for  all  kinds  of  cattle; 
it  has  an  abundance  of  firewood  as  well  as  timber  for  building  purposes,  such  as  pine, 
white  elms,  and  some  redwoods ;  and  at  a  distance  of  less  than  a  league  there  are 
many  cypresses  on  the  point  called  by  the  same  name,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of 
the  trees;   it  has  a  beautiful  sky,  although  after  the  rains  the  clouds  are  thick;   the 

vivas  ansias  pasar  a  fundar  la  otra  de  San  Luis  Obispo,  pero  no  era  dable  por  la  falta  de  soldados 
para  escoltas,  y  asi  dio  mano  a  trasladar  la  mision  como  le  encargaba  su  escelencia;  para  ello  dispuso 
que  en  el  real  perninneciese  ^u  padre  compafiero  fray  Juan  Crespi,  y  los  ministros  destinados  pa-a  San 
Luis,  y  su  reverencia  determino  pasar  A  vivir  al  paraje  que  habia  seiialado  en  el  Carmelo  para 
idear   la   ohra  <le   la    iglesia   y   vivienda,    como   tambien    para    acalorarlo. 

"Con  este  fin  se  mudo  a  las  orillas  del  Carmelo  a  principio  de  Agosto  de  dicho  aiio  de  1771, 
escoltado  de  los  cinco  soldados,  y  habiendo  ya  cortado  alguna  madera  los  tres  marineros  y  cuatro 
indios  Californios,  a  lo  que  tambien  ayudaban  los  senores  soldados,  dio  principio  a  la  obra  haciendo 
por  de  pronto  una  pieza  para  capUla  y  a  su  continuacion  vivienda  con  cuatro  pieza-;  y  una  mayor 
para  troie  como  tambien  una  casa  para  la  vivienda  de  muchachos  y  su  c.ocina,  todo  de  madera  con 
su  terrado  cercado  todo  de  buena  estacada.  Kn  la  esquina  del  cuadro  de  elle  una  casa  tambien  con 
su  terrado  para  guardia  de  los  soldados,  y  a  la  vista  unos  corrales  para  las  bestias  y  ganarlos.  Como 
eran  pocos  los  trabaj adores  y  no  apuraba  niucho  por  tener  en  la  mision  vieja  contigua  al  real 
presidio  todas  las  cargas  y  trastes  pertenecicntes  a  la  mision.  no  se  dieron  prisa;  por  cuya  razon  no  se 
dio  por  concluida  la  obra  y  no  se  efectuo  la  total  mutacion  hasta  ultimos  de  Diciembre  de  dicho 
ano  de  71,  en  que  quedaron  del  todo  mudados,  quedando  en  el  real  los  dos  ministros  de  la  mision 
diciendo  misa  hasta  tanto  se  verificase  la  fundacion  de  la  mision. 

"Quedo  la  mision  de  San  Carlos  con  esta  traslacion  en  un  ameno  sitio.  fundada  sobre  una  loma 
que  tiene  a  la  vista  un  dilatado  llano  muy  a  proposito  para  siembras,  que  es  toda  la  vega  del  rio  Car- 
melo cuya  agua  corre  toda  el  ano,  auuque  en  tiempo  de  secas  no  es  mucha  el  agua,  siendo  asi  que  en 
tiempo  de  aguas  no  da  vado  toda  su  caja,  muy  poblada  de  arboleda,  sauces  y  otros  palos  con  mucha 
zarzamora  e  infinidad  de  rosales  de  Castilla  ciue  estan  tambien  muy  ijoblados  los  campo-^;  a  mano 
izquierda  tiene  una  buena  laguna  al  pie  de  la  loma  de  esta  mision.  con  bastante  agua,  principalmente 
en  tiempo  de  lluvias  que  no  alcanza  a  mantener  en  su  caja  toda  la  que  recibe  de  las  lomas  cercun- 
vecinas.  y  en  dicho  tiempo  corre  por  una  grande  zanja  hasta  la  mar  que  dista  poco  mas  de  dos  tiros 
de  fusil,  que  es  la  ensenadita  de  la  banda  del  Sur  de  la  punta  de  Pinos:  pero  en  tiempo  de  secas 
man  tiene  dicha  laguna  su  porcion  de  agua  buena  que  en  si  tiene  unos  veneres,  y  en  tiempo  de 
aguas  con  una  presa  de  unas  cit-n  varas  que  es  el  tramo  de  la  loma  y  el  ancbo  de  dicha  laguna,  parece 
seria  facil  retener  bastante  aqua  para  regar  lo  que  quisiese  del  llano  que  tiene  a  la  vista. 

'*Ksta  la  mision  ceracada  de  lomerias  con  buenos  pastes  para  toda  especie  de  ganados;  tiene 
abundancia  de  lena^  como  tambien  de  madera  para  fabricar.  como  de  pinos,  alamos  blancos  y  algunos 
palos  colorados;  y  a  una  legua  poco  menos  de  distancia  hay  muchos  cipreses  en  la  punta  llamada  der 
dichos  arboles  por  la  abundancia  de  ellos:  tiene  hermosa  cielo.  aunque  despues  de  concluidas  las 
aguas  abundan  las  neblinas;  la  vista  que  tiene  desde  la  mision  a  la  mar  es  de  dicha  ensenada;  en 
las  cercanias  de  la  mision  hay  varias  rancherias  de  gentiles  que  desde  luego  de  fundada  la  mision 
la  cmpezaron  a  frecuentar  y  empezo  en  breve  su  reduccion,  como  dire  en  su  lugar  hablando  del 
estado  de  dicha  mision.'' 


20  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

view  looks  out  toward  the  sea  upon  the  bay  mentioned  above ;  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
mission  there  are  several  rancherias  of  gentiles  who,  since  the  founding  of  the  mission, 
have  begun  to  frequent  it.  The  mission  within  a  short  time  began  their  conversion, 
as  I  shall  tell  in  the  account  of  the  state  of  the  mission." 

Erection  of  Mission  Buildings.  In  his  first  report,  dated  at  the  mission 
May  21.  1773,  Fr.  Serra  gives  the  following  description  of  the  mission  as 
it  was  at  that  time :'" 

"The  first  and  most  northerly,  and  consequently  most  remote,  from  this  city,  is 
the  Mission  of  San  Carlos  de  Monterey  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rio  Carmelo.  This  is 
the  administrative  head  of  the  missions.  It  was  founded  Sunday,  on  the  Feast  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  .3d  day  of  June,  1770,  but  as  it  was  for  an  entire  year  incorporated 
with  the  Royal  Presidio  from  which  it  was  afterwards  transferred  to  the  place  it 
now  occupies,  it  is  referred  to  as  being  established  a  j-ear  later. 

"They  first  turned  their  attention  to  the  building  of  the  stockade  and  dwellings. 
This  mission  has  a  natural  advantage  over  the  others  on  account  of  its  location  among 
an  abundance  of  the  woods  of  various  kinds,  all  easily  obtained,  and  in  its  situation  in 
a  part  where  the  soldiers  so  earnestly  apply  themselves  to  the  work.  To  God  praise 
be  given ! 

"The  stockade  of  rough  timbers,  thick  and  high  with  ravelins  in  the  corners,  is 
something  more  than  seventy  varas  long  and  forty-three  wide,  and  is  closed  at  night 
witli  a  key  although  it  is  not  secure  because  of  lack  of  nails.  An  entrance  can 
easily  be  forced  by  the  knocking  off  of  timbers.  The  main  house  is  seven  varas  wide 
and  fifty  long.  It  is  divided  into  six  rooms,  all  with  doors  and  locks.  The  walls 
are  made  of  rough  timbers  plastered  over  with  mud  both  inside  and  out.  Those  of 
the  principal  rooms  are  whitewashed  with  lime.  One  of  the  rooms  serves  provisionally 
as  a  church. 

"Xear  this  building  on  the  outside  is  the  guard-house  or  barracks  of  the  soldiers,  and 
adjoining  it,  their  kitchen.  All  are  enclosed  in  the  stockade.  All  of  these  buildings 
have  flat  roofs  of  clay  and  mud,  and  for  most  of  them  a  kitchen  has  been  made. 
There  are  various  little  houses  for  the  Indians  with  straw  or  hay  roofs.  Attention 
was  later  given  to  a  small  garden  which  is  near  at  hand,  but  for  want  of  a  gardener 
it  has  made  little  progress." 

During  the  year  1774  a  ninnher  of  additional  structures  were  built. 
According  to  the  report  of  Father  Serra.  there  had  been  erected  din-ing  the 
year  a  house  thirty  by  seven  varas  in  size,  constructed  ])artly  of  adolje  and 
partly   of   palisades   with    thatched    roof.     This   was   used   as   a    workshop. 

'"Serra.  Reprcsentacion  de  21  de  Mayo,  1773,  in  Archh-o  de  la  Mision  de  Santa  Barbara,  I,  92-93, 
Archives  of  California.  Provincial  State  Paper.':.  I,  109-111.  "La  primcra  y  mas  avanzada  al  Norte, 
V  por  tanin  la  mas  remota  de  csta  ciudad  la  dc  San  Carlos  de  Monterey,  en  las  cercanias  del  Rio 
Carmelo,   Cabezera  de  las  dcmas. 

"Esta  se  fnndio  Domingo,  y  Pascuia  del  L'spiritu  Santo  dia  3  de  Junio  de  1770,  pero  como_  estuvo 
un  ano  entero  incorporada  al  Real  Presidio,  de  donde  se  transferio  despucs  al  lugar  hoy  tiene,  se 
puede  reputar  como  de  un  ano  menos  de  fundaeion.  A  lo  que  primer  se  dio  mano  en  el  nuevo 
sitio,  file  conio  se  acostumbra  a  la  ICstacada  y  liabitaciones.  Kn  uno  y  otro,  ha  tin  'dado  ventajosa 
a  las  demas  como  que  la  naluraleza  .-iventajo  el  sitio  en  la  abundancia  de  las  mnilcns  de  varias 
especies,  todas  a  la  mano,  y  que  es  la  parte  en  donde  se  aplicaron  mas  los  soldailos  al  trabajo. 
Dios  se  lo  pagtie. 

"La  ccrca  6  Estacada  de  palos  gruesos,  tupidos,  y  altos  con  sus  vevellines  en  la  Esquinas  tiene  de 
larRo,  alKo  mas  rie  70  varas.  y  de  ancho  -13  y  se  cierra  de  noche  con  la  Have,  alunic|ue  pni-  no  estar 
cnlatada  por  falta  de  clavos,  es  facil  con  tumbor  a  dcsviar  algun  palo  la  entrada.  La  casa  principal 
tiene  de  ancho  7  varas.  y  de  largo  ."^O  dividida  en  6  piezas.  todas  con  siis  pucrtas  v  cM-rarUnas.  Las 
paredcs  de  palos  gruesos  emharradas  por  fiiera  y  por  dentro,  y  las  piezas  principales  blanqueadas 
con  cal,  una  de  las  que  sirve  interinamcntc  de  iglcsia. 

"Junto  a  dha,  cerca  por  la  parte  de  afuera  esta  la  guardia  6  cuartcl  dc  los  soldados,  y  junto  a  i\ 
Bu  cocina,  ceflido  uno  y  olro  de  su  estacada.  Todas  dhas  fabricas  son  de  azotea  de  barro  y  tierra;  y 
,1  mas  de  cllas  se  hizo  nucstra  cozina,  y  varias  casitas  para  los  liulios.  con  techos  pnji/.os,  o  de^zacate; 
sc  di()  (lespues  mano  a  una  huertecila.  que  se  cerco  y  por  falta  tie  liortelano  hizo  pocas  mcdras." 


iMISSION    SAN    CARLOS  21 

Two  Other  houses  of  about  tlie  same  size  as  the  one  described  were  built, 
to  be  occupied  by  the  famihes  of  two  married  servants.  The  surgeon  and 
his  family  had  another  of  similar  size  with  a  flat  earth  roof.  It  had  two 
rooms  together  with  a  bedroom.  Similar  buildings  housed  the  smith  and  his 
family,  and  the  captain  of  the  guard  and  his  family,  the  latter  building  being 
of  palisades  with  roof  of  straw.  In  addition  to  these  buildings  there  had 
been  erected  a  large  oven  of  adobe  for  baking  bread  for  the  mission,  and 
several  smaller  ones  for  the  Indians." 

During  the  next  twelve  years  there  are  but  few  recorded  facts  relating  to 
the  architectural  history  of  the  mission.  It  is  inferred  that  activities  con- 
tinued without  much  change,  the  early  structures  still  serving  in  large 
measure  the  purposes  for  wliich  they  had  been  erected. 

Deaths  of  Fathers  Crcspi  and  Serra.  During  the  years  1783  and  1784 
the  life  of  the  mission  was  saddened  by  the  deaths  of  its  beloved  founders. 
Father  Crespi  and  Father  Serra.  Father  Juan  Crespi,  who  had  been  the 
faithful  companion  of  Father  Serra  at  Carmel  since  its  first  establishment, 
passed  away  early  in  1783.  He  was  a  member  of  the  party  which  founded 
San  Diego  in  1769,  and  served  as  chronicler  of  the  Portola  expedition  which 
discovered  Monterey  and  San  Francisco  bays.  He  received  his  last  sacra- 
ment at  the  hands  of  his  old  friend,  companion,  and  superior.  Father 
Junipero,  and  was  buried  within  the  sanctuary  on  the  gospel  side.^- 

The  death  of  Fray  Juan  was  severely  felt  by  Father  Serra,  whose  own 
health  was  rapidly  failing.  In  spite  of  this,  however,  he  again  journeyed 
Fouth  by  water  in  1784,  that  he  might  begin  his  work  of  confirmation  at 
San  Diego,  and  pass  northward  through  all  the  missions.  His  enfeebled  con- 
dition showed  that  he  was  releasing  his  hold  upon  life  and  that  his  days  of 
labor  were  nearly  over.  His  deep  concern  in  the  success  of  the  missions 
weighed  heavily  upon  him.  Realizing  that  his  life  was  ebbing,  representative 
priests  from  nearby  missions  were  requested  to  gather  about  him,  but  Palou 
was  the  only  one  to  reach  San  Carlos  in  time  to  be  present  at  the  death  of 
the  father  president. 

On  the  twenty-seventh  of  August,  1784,  Serra  stated  that  he  would  re- 
ceive the  Most  Holy  Viaticum  in  the  church,  although  Palou  advised  the 
decoration  of  Serra's  cell,  assuring  him  that  His  Divine  Majesty  would  come 
to  visit  him  there.  Father  Serra  replied  in  the  negative,  saying  that  he  de- 
sired to  receive  it  in  the  church,  and  since  he  was  able  to  walk,  there  was 
no  reason  why  his  Lord  should  come  to  him.     He  went  by  liimself  to  the 

"Serra.  Iiifornie.  1774,  in  Archiro  dc  la  Mision  dc  Santa  Barbara,  Informcs  y  carrespoftdencia, 
I,  146.147.  (Bancroft  Collection,  ms.).  "Desde  el  mes  de  Diciembre  de  1773,  que  fue  el  primero 
y  ultimo  informe  a  V.  Exc"  del  estado.  y  progressos' de  estas  5  misiones,  hasta  ultimos  de 
Diciembre   proximo  pasado  el  74  ha  tenido  esta  mision  los  augmentos  siguientes. 

"Primeramente  una  casa  de  30  varas  de  largo,  y  7  de  ancho  parte  de  adobes,  y  parte  de  palizada. 

con   su   techo   de   zacate   para   oticina  de, Otra   dha   de  lo   mismo.   y   del   niismo   tamaiio    para   un 

sirviente  casado.  Otra  dha  algo  mayor  tambien  de  palizada  con  burrador  con  techo  de  zacate  para 
otro  sirviente  casado  con  India  de  la  Mision  recien  Christiana.  Otro  dha  de  lo  mismo  con  azotea 
de  tierra.  con  dos  piezas  de  sala  y  recamara  para  vivienda  del  cirujano  y  su  familia.  Otra  dha  de  lo 
mismo  y  del  mismo  tamano  con  sus  2  piezas  para  vivienda  del  herrero  y  su  familia.  Otra  dha  de 
palizada  con  techo  de  zacate  en  que  vive  el  cabo  de  la  escolta  con  su  familia.  Un  horno  de  adobes 
para  hacer  pan.     Unas  hornillas  de  adoves  para  cozina  de  los  Indios." 

^-Bancroft.  History   of  California,   I,   386. 

4—11308 


22  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

church  (a  distance  of  more  than  one  hundred  varas)  accompanied  by  the 
commander  of  the  garrison.  All  the  Indians  of  the  village  or  mission  ac- 
companied the  devoted  sick  father  to  the  church  with  extreme  tenderness 
and  affection.  Father  Palou  received  from  the  lips  of  the  dying  padre  the 
request  that  he  be  buried  in  the  church,  near  Crespi.'"  He  consequently 
was  also  buried  within  the  sanctuary  on  the  gospel  side  of  the  altar.'''  For 
a  short  time  Palou  succeeded  to  the  presidency  of  the  missions  until  the 
place  was  taken  over  by  Father  Lasuen  of  San  Diego  in  November,  1785.''' 

San  Carlos  I'isitcd  by  Lapcroiisc.  Ij86.  In  September,  1786,  Monterey 
Bay  was  visited  by  Jean  Francois  Galaup  de  Laperouse,  then  making  a  tour 
of  the  world  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  geographical  and  other  scientific 
information.  For  this  purpose  his  expedition  had  been  fitted  out  by  the 
French  government.  The  record  left  by  Laperouse  gives  a  vivid  and 
probably  fairly  accurate  picture  of  the  establishment  as  it  was  at  that  date 
He  describes  his  visit  to  the  mission  as  follows  •}'^ 

"After  traversing  a  small  plain  covered  with  herds  of  cattle we  ascended 

the  hills,  and  were  struck  with  the  sound  of  several  bells  which  announced  our  arrival, 
of  which  the  monks  had  been  apprized  by  a  horseman  whom  the  governor  had  detached 
for  that  purpose. 

"We  were  received  like  lords  of  a  parish  when  they  make  their  first  appearance 
on  their  estate ;  the  president  of  the  missions,  clothed  in  his  cope,  the  holy  water 
sprinkler  in  his  hand,  waited  for  us  at  the  door  of  the  church,  which  was  illuminated 
the  same  as  on  their  greatest  festivals ;  he  conducted  us  to  the  foot  of  the  high  altar, 
where  the   Tc  Dcuiii  was  sung  in  thanksgiving  for  the  happy  success  of  our  voyage. 

"Before  we  entered  the  church,  we  had  passed  by  a  place  w^iere  the  Indians  of 
hoth  sexes  were  ranged  in  a  row ;  they  expressed  no  surprise  in  their  countenances, 
and  we  were  left  in  doubt  whether  we  were  the  subject  of  their  conversation  during 
the  rest  of  the  day.  The  parish  church  is  very  neat,  although  covered  with  straw ;  it 
is  dedicated  to  Saint  Charles,  and  ornamented  with  fairly  good  paintings,  copied 
from  Italian  originals.  There  is  a  picture  of  Hell,  in  which  the  painter  seems  to 
have  borrowed  a  little  of  the  imagination  of  Callot ;  but  as  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  strike  the  senses  of  these  new  converts  with  thf  most  lively  impressions,  I  am  per- 
suaded that  a  similar  representation  has  never  done  more  service  in  any  country,  and 
that  it  would  be  impossible  for  the  protestant  mode  of  worship,  which  forbids  images, 
and  nearly  all  the  otlicr  ceremonies  of  our  church,  to  make  any  progress  among  this 
people.  I  have  my  doubts,  whether  the  picture  of  Paradi.se,  which  is  placed  opposite 
to  that  of  Hell,  produces  so  good  an  effect  on  them ;  the  state  of  quietness  which  it 
represents,  and  that  cotnplacent  satisfaction  of  the  elect  who  surround  the  throne  of 
the  Supreme  Being,  are  ideas  too  sublime  for  rude  unpolished  ni.in  ;  but  it  is  ncccs- 
■sary  to  place  rewards  by  the  side  of  punishments,  and  it  was  a  rigorous  duty  not  to 
allow  the  smallest  change  in  the  kind  of  delights  promised  by  the  Catholic  religion. 

"Wc  repassed,  on  going  out  of  the  church,  the  same  row  of  male  and  female 
Indians,  who  had  never  quitted  their  post  during  the  Tc  Dcum:  the  children  only 
had   removed   a  lillle.  and    formed   groups   arouml   tin-   missionary's   house,   ubicli    is   in 


'■'Palou,  Vitia,  271-2,  2/4.  "Ocsi-o  (|Ue  me  entierre  en  la  iglesja  ccr<iuita  del  P.  I'"r.  .luan  Crcspi  por 
ahora,  <iiic  fitiaiulo  se  Iiaga  la   iglcsia  de  picdra  nic  tiraran  dondc  quisiereii." 

"Palou,    Vida,    280.      "I'ue    sepultado   en    el    Picsbytciio   al   lado  del   Evangelio." 

'"Paycras  Report,  181S,  in  Snnta  Barbara  Archives.  XII,  453,  Pages  to  Palou,  178.^,  in  /Vo?', 
Kcc.   III.   .SO,    (Hancroft   Collection,  ms.). 

"Lapirousc,  Voyage  autour  du  mondc  (Paris,  1798),  II,  293-300. 


MISSION'    SAN    CARLOS  23 

front  of  the  church,  as  arc  also  the  different  storehouses.  On  the  right  stands  the 
Indian  village,  consisting  of  about  fiftj'  cabins,  which  serve  as  dwelling  places  for 
seven  hundred  and  forty  persons  of  both  sexes,  including  their  children,  wliicli 
compose  the  mission  of  Saint  Charles,  or  of  Monterey. 

"These  cabins  are  the  most  miserable  that  are  to  be  met  with  among  any  people ; 
they  are  round,  six  feet  in  diameter,  Ijy  four  in  height;  some  stakes,  of  the  size  of 
an  arm,  fixed  in  the  earth,  and  which  approach  each  other  in  an  arch  at  the  top,  com- 
pose the  timber-work  of  it;  eight  or  ten  bundles  of  straw,  very  ill  arranged  over  these 
stakes,  defend  the  inhabitants,  well  or  dl,  from  the  rain  and  wind;  and  more  than 
half  of  this  cabin  remains  open  when  the  weather  is  fine ;  their  only  precaution  is  to 
have  each  of  them  two  or  three  bundles  of  straw  at  hand  by  way  of  reserve. 

".'Ml  the  exhortations  of  the  missionaries  have  never  been  able  to  procure  a  change 
of  this  general  architecture  of  the  two  Californias;  the  Indians  say  that  they  like 
plenty  of  air,  that  it  is  convenient  to  set  fire  to  tlreir  houses  when  they  are  devoured 
in  them  by  too  great  quantity  of  fleas,  and  that  they  can  build  another  in  less  than 
two  hours.  The  independent  Indians,  who  as  hunters  so  frequently  change  their 
places  of  abode,  have  a  stronger  motive. 

"The  colour  of  these  Indians,  which  is  that  of  negroes ;  the  house  of  the  religious ; 
their  storehouses,  which  are  built  of  brick  and  pointed  with  mortar ;  the  floor  of 
earth,  upon  which  they  press  in  the  grain  ;  the  oxen,  horses,  in  a  word,  everything 
reminded  us  of  a  habitation  in  Saint  Domingo,  or  any  other  West  India  colony.  The 
men  and  women  are  assembled  by  the  sound  of  the  bell,  one  of  the  religious  conducts 
them  to  their  work,  to  church,  and  to  all  their  other  exercises 

"The  Indians  as  well  as  the  missionaries  rise  with  the  sun,  and  go  to  prayers  and 
mass,  which  last  an  hour,  and  during  this  time  there  is  cooked  in  the  middle  of  the 
square,  in  three  large  kettles,  barley  meal,  the  grain  of  which  has  been  roasted 
previous  to  being  ground ;  this  species  of  boiled  food,  which  the  Indians  call  atole, 
and  of  which  they  are  very  fond,  is  seasoned  neither  with  salt  nor  butter,  and  to  us 
would  prove  a  very  insipid  mess. 

"Every  cabin  sends  to  take  the  portion  for  all  its  inhabitants  in  a  vessel  made  of 
bark ;  there  is  not  the  least  confusion  or  disorder,  and  when  the  coppers  are  empty, 
they  distribute  that  which  sticks  to  the  bottom  to  the  children  who  have  best  retained 
their  lessons  of  catechism. 

"This  meal  continues  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  after  which  they  all  return  to  their 
labours ;  some  go  to  plough  the  earth  with  oxen,  others  to  dig  the  garden ;  in  a  word, 
every  one  is  employed  in  different  domestic  occupations,  and  always  under  the  super- 
intendence of  one  or  two  of  the  religious. 

"The  women  are  charged  with  little  else  but  the  care  of  their  housewifery,  their 
children,  and  roasting  and  grinding  the  several  grains ;  this  last  operation  is  very  long 
and  laborious,  because  they  have  no  other  means  of  doing  it  but  by  crushing  the  grain 
in  pieces  with  a  cylinder  upon  a  stone.  M.  de  Langle,  being  a  witness  of  this  operation, 
made  the  missionaries  a  present  of  his  mill,  and  a  greater  service  could  not  have  been 
rendered  them,  as  by  these  means  four  wonTen  would  in  a  day  perform  the  work  of 
a  hundred,  and  time  enough  will  remain  to  spin  the  wool  of  their  sheep,  and  to  manu- 
facture coarse  stuffs.  But  at  present  the  religious,  more  occupied  with  the  interests 
of  heaven  than  temporal  welfare,  have  greatly  neglected  the  introduction  of  the  com- 
mon arts ;  they  are  themselves  so  austere,  that  they  have  no  chimney  to  their  chambers, 
though  winter  is  frequently  very  severe  there ;  and  even  the  greater  anchorites  have 
never  led  a  more  edifying  life." 

StojH-  church  erected,  i/Q^-Q/'.  For  more  than  twenty  years  temporary 
structures  had  served  as  a  place  of  worship.  Under  the  presidency  of 
Lasuen  a  determined  eftnrt  was  made  to  replace  the  older  by  a  jiermanent 


24  ARCHITFXTURAL    HISTORY 

Stone  structure.  During  December,  1792.  Manuel  Estevan  Ruiz,  master 
mason  and  stone  worker,  took  up  his  work  at  the  Mission  San  Carlos.  He 
was  to  instruct  the  natives  in  stonework  and  to  supervise  the  construction 
of  the  buildings.  As  no  material  was  then  ready  and  as  the  heavy  rainy 
season  prevented  the  gathering  of  any  sufficient  amount,  it  was  summer 
before  the  construction  work  upon  the  new  church  was  actively  started,  the 
first  stone  being  laid  July  7,  1793.^"  Four  years  were  consumed  before  the 
church  building  was  completed.  Finally  in  September,  1797,  it  was  dedi- 
cated for  service.  It  was  described  in  the  reports  as  being  well  built  of 
cut  stone  (canteria),  roofed  with  tile,  and  presenting  a  harmonious  and 
beautiful  appearance."^ 

J'ancotn'cr  at  San  Carlos.  During  the  time  that  the  new  church  was 
imder  construction  Captain  George  Vancouver  of  the  British  navy,  while 
upon  this  coast,  visited  the  mission  in  Carmel  Valley.  The  artist  of  the 
expedition,  J.  Sykes,  made  a  sketch  of  the  establishment  as  it  was  at  that 
time.  This  sketch  (plate  2)  is  the  first  record  to  illustrate  in  pictorial  form 
the  appearance  of  the  mission.  A'ancouver  records  his  observations  as 
follows  :'■' 

■'....  on  Sunday  the  2nd  of  D'eceniber,  in  consequence  of  a  very  polite  invita- 
tion, I  paid  'my  respects  to  the  mission  of  St.  Carlos,  accompanied  by  Senr.  Quadra. 
Senr.  Arguella,  Senr.  Caamano,  Mr.  Broughton,  and  several  other  English  and  Spanish 
officers. 

"This  establishment  is  situated  about  a  league  to  the  south-eastward  of  the  presidio 
of  Monterey.  The  road  between  them  lies  over  some  steep  hills  and  hollow  vallies, 
interspersed  with  many  trees ;  the  surface  was  covered  over  with  an  agreeable  verdure ; 
the  general  cliaractcr  of  the  country  was  lively,  and  our  journey  altogether  was  very 
pleasant 

"The  usual  ceremonies  on  introduction  being  over,  our  time  was  pleasantly  engaged 
in  the  society  of  the  father  president  and  his  two  companions,  the  priests  regularly 
belonging  to  the  mission  of  St.  Carlos,  who  attended  us  over  their  premises.  These 
seemed  to  differ  but  little  from  those  at  St.  Francisco,  or  Sta.  Clara ;  excepting  that 
the  buildings  were  smaller,  the  plan,  architecture,  and  materials  exactly  corresponding. 


'"Lasuen  to  I'orica,  San  Carlos,  Due.  10,  1794.  in  Artlii'n  ilc  la  Mision  dc  Siiu[a  Lfarbara,  \'l, 
219-220;  Lasuen  to  .\rrillaga.  June  7,  1794,  in  Arclir.o  licl  .■lr:obisl^a,lo,  I.  .18.  (Bancroft  Collec- 
tion, ms. ).  It  is  probable  tbat  Sena  and  Crtspi  had  much  to  do  with  the  designing  of  tlic  later  stone 
church.  Father  Serra  made  definite  reference  to  the  stone  church  in  arranging  for  his  burial  (nolc  13). 
It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  experiences  of  both  of  these  men  in  Sierra  Corda  liad  prepared 
them  for  church  building  as  well  as  religious  work.  In  the  valley  of  Tilaco  Crcspi  had  constructed 
the  .Mission  of  San  Francisco  includiirg  a  large  church  of  stone  "with  its  vaulted  ceiling  (hovedas) 
and  tower"  (Palou.  ridci.  2i7:  James  edition.  2.10).  Serra  had  spent  seven  years  in  ctnistrncting  a 
large  church  at  the  Mission  of  Jalpan.  It  was  more  than  one  hundred  forty-^even  feet  long  and 
thirty  feel  wide  and  was  built  of  rubble  work.  It  is  described  as  having  a  transcepi  and  dome  and  a 
suitable  sacristy  with  vaulted  ceiling,     il'ida.  iA\  James  edition,  32). 

'Mrr/n'tr.T  of  Califortiia,  Stutr  Pa(>rrs  Missioux,  II.  .S ;  Ivasuen  Estado  (ieneral,  1793-4.  San  Carlos, 
Mar.  11,  1795,  in  Archivo  de  la  Mision  dc  Santa  Barbara,  XII,  57.  "La  iglesia  de  la  Mision  de  S. 
Carlos  se  concluyo  en  el  prescnte  atio;  cs  toda  de  canteria:  su  lecbo  es  de  teja  y  est.a  bien  provista 
de  ornamentos  y  vitiles.  .  .  ."  Sal.  Estado.  Monterey,  Dec.  31,  1797,  in  Archives  of  California, 
Stale  Palters  Missions,  IT.  120.  "La  iglesia  de  San  Carlos  se  bendijo  y  dedico  por  Sept  dc  97  y 
esta  buena."  Lasuen  Refort,  1797-8,  San  Carlos,  Feb>  20,  1799,  in  Archivo  dc  la  Mision  de  Santa 
Barbara,  XII,  66.      tIJancroft  Collection,  ms.). 

'"X'ancouver.  A  I'oyage  of  nisco:'ery.  II,  33-36.  There  appears  to  be  a  serious  discrepancy 
between  Vancouver  and  Lasuen  in  reference  to  the  date  when  the  construction  of  the  mission 
church  was  begun.  \'ancouver  gives  the  date  of  his  visit  as  Dec.  2,  1792,  and  proceeds  to  describe 
the  materials  and  methods  used  in  building  tlie  church  which  be  found  in  process  of  construction. 
On  the  other  liand,  Lasuen  says  the  head  mason  did  not  arrive  at  Carmel  until  after  tliat  date  and 
that  six  months  more  elapseil  before  the  lirsl  stcuie  was  laid.  It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  Vancouver 
may  have  confused  the  d.ates  of  his  visit.  lie  was  at  .Monterey  again  in  November  and  December, 
1794,  and  it  is  iiossible  bis  notes  and  sketch  may  belong  to  that  date  rather  than  to  the  earlier  visit, 
ibid..   Ill,  324-340.     This  is  the  opinion  of  Bancroft. 


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^^^oH 

Plate   1.      Forest  of   Monterey  I'uws.      Aloian,  photo. 

The  value  of  tliis  forest  was  noted  by  Vizcaino  and   Crespi.     From  it   Serra  obtained   the   timbers 
for  San  Carlos  Mission. 


~r      „,  «  c 


MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  27 

"In  tlieir  granaries  were  deposited  a  pretty  large  quantity  of  the  different  kinds  of 
grain  before  noticed  at  the  other  establishments,  to  which  was  added  some  barley,  but 
the  wliole  was  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  the  return  from  the  soil  by  no  means  equal 
to  that  produced  at  Sta.  Clara.  Here  also  was  a  small  garden  on  the  same  confnied 
scale,  and  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  observed  at  the  other  stations. 

"An  Indian  village  is  also  in  the  neighborhood ;  it  appeared  to  us  but  small,  yet  tlie 
number  of  its  inhabitants  under  tlie  immediate  direction  of  this  mission  was  said  to 
amount  to  eight  hundred,  govenTed  by  the  same  charitable  principles  as  those  we  had 
before  visited.  Notwithstanding  these  people  are  taught  and  employed  from  time  to 
time  in  many  of  the  occupations  most  useful  to  civil  society,  they  had  not  made  them- 
selves any  more  comfortable  liabitations  than  those  of  their  forefathers ;  nor  did  they 
seem  in  any  respect  to  ha\^  benefited  by  the  instruction  they  had  received.  Some  of 
them  were  at  this  time  engaged  under  the  direction  of  the  fathers,  in  building  a 
church  with  stone  and  mortar.  The  former  material  appeared  to  be  of  a  very  tender 
friable  nature,  scarcely  more  hard  than  indurated  clay ;  but  I  was  told,  that  on  its 
being  exposed  to  the  air.  it  soon  becomes  hardened,  and  is  an  excellent  stone  for  the 
purpose  of  building.  It  is  of  a  light  straw  colour,  and  presents  a  rich  and  elegant 
appearance,  in  proportion  to  tlie  labour  that  is  bestowed  upon  it.  It  is  found  in 
abundance  at  no  great  depth  from  the  surface  of  the  earth ;  the  quarries  are  easily 
worked,  and  it  is  I  believe  the  only  stone  the  Spaniards  have  hitherto  made  use  of  in 
building.  At  Sta.  Clara  I  was  shown  a  ponderous  black  stone,  that  father  Thomas 
said  was  intended  to  be  so  appropriated  as  soon  as  persons  capable  of  working  it  could 
be  procured.  The  lime  they  use  is  made  from  sea  shells,  principally  from  the  ear  shell, 
which  is  of  a  large  size  and  in  great  numbers  on  the  shores ;  not  having  as  yet  found 
any  calcareous  earth  that  would  answer  this  essential  purpose.  The  heavy  black  stone 
is  supposed  to  be  applicable  to  grinding,  and  should  it  be  found  so  to  answer,  it  will 
be  a  matter  of  great  importance  to  their  comfort,  since  their  only  method  of  reducing 
their  corn  to  flour  is  by  two  small  stones  placed  in  an  iticlined  position  on  the  ground ; 
on  the  lower  one  the  corn  is  laid,  and  ground  by  hand  by  rubbing  the  other  stone 
nearly  of  the  same  surface  over  it.  The  flour  produced  by  this  rude  and  laborious 
process  makes  very  white  and  well  tasted,  though  heavy  bread,  but  this  defect  is  said 
by  the  Spaniards  to  be  greatly  remedied  when  mixed  with  an  equal  proportion  of  flour 
properly  ground. 

"After  w-e  had  satisfied  our  curiosity  in  these  particulars  we  rode  round  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  mission.  It  was  pleasantly  situated,  and  the  country,  agreeably  broken  by 
hills  and  vallies,  had  a  verdant  appearance,  and  was  adorned  like  that  in  the  vicinity 
of  Monterrey,  with  many  clumps  and  single  trees,  mostly  of  the  pine  tribe,  holly- 
leaved  oak  and  willows ;  with  a  few  trees  of  the  poplar  and  maple,  and  some  variety 
of  shrubs,  that  rather  incommoded  our  travelling,  which  was  chiefly  confined  to  one 
of  the  vallies,  and  within  sight  of  the  buildings.  Through  this  valley  a  small  brook  of 
water  about  knee-deep,  called  by  the  Spaniards  Rio  Carmelo,  takes  its  course,  passes 
tlic  buildings  of  the  mission,  and  immediately  empties  itself  into  tire  sea. 

"In  this  valley,  near  the  sides  of  the  Carmelo,  a  few  acres  of  land  exhibited  a  toler- 
ably good  plant  of  wheat;  but  as  the  soil  here,  as  well  as  at  Monterrey,  is  of  a  light 
sandy  nature,  its  productions  are  consequently  inferior  to  the  other  two  missions  I  had 
visit'ed ;  yet  I  was  given  to  understand,  that  the  interior  country  here,  like  that  at  St. 
Francisco,  improves  in  point  of  fertility,  as  it  retires  from  the  ocean. 

"On  our  return  to  the  convent,  we  found  a  most  excellent  repast  served  with  great 
neatness,  in  a  pleasant  bower  constructed  for  that  purpose  in  the  garden  of  the  mission." 

Elsewhere  it  is  stated  that  in  December,  1793.  while  in  San  Diego, 
Vancouver  presented  the  president  of  the  mission  with  a  "iiandsome  bar- 


28  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

relied  organ"  for  the  use  and  ornament  of  the  new  church  which  was  being 
built  at  the  presidency  of  the  missions  at  San  Carlos.-" 

Tlic  Quarters  of  the  Neophytes,  1800.  In  his  report  for  1800  Father 
Lasuen,  the  president  of  the  missions,  describes  the  nature  of  the  dwellings 
used  by  the  Christianized  Indians,  criticism  of  which  has  been  seen  in  the 
descriptions  by  both  Laperouse  and  Vancouver.  He  also  describes  in  some 
detail  the  dormitory  of  the  girls  and  immarried  women.  The  report  reads  as 
follows :-' 

".'Mthough  the  houses  of  the  Neophytes  do  not  differ  in  material  and  form  from  those 
which  the  Gentiles  use,  they  are  indeed  different  in  cleanliness  and  good  condition. 
Ordinarily  the  missionaries  and  also  the  Christian  Indians  continue  improving  the 
arrangement  of  their  houses  and  rarely  will  one  condescend  to  live  in  a  small  hut  like 
he  had  in  his  Gentilism.  In  the  channel  of  Santa  Barbara  the  natives  never  use 
similar  small  huts.  They  have  always,  in  contrast  with  the  remainder  of  those  in  sub- 
jection, houses  sufficiently  roomy.  They  are  built  of  paling  and  thatch  and  because  of 
this  e.xposed  to  fire.  It  is  well  known  that  for  many  years  neither  in  missions,  nor  in 
pueblos,  nor  in  presidios  had  there  been  churches,  dwellings  nor  storerooms  of  any 
other  material.  Of  the  latter  some  rooms  are  still  preserved,  in  many  places  as  in  the 
royal  presidio  of  San  Francisco  almost  all.  Accordingly,  as  they  have  been  able,  or  as 
they  now  find  themselves  able  they  construct  buildings  of  adobe  or  of  stone  roofed  with 
tile.  In  this  manner  are  the  houses  of  the  Indians  ( I  do  not  know  how  this  has  been 
reported  by  the  Governor  or  any  of  the  commandants)  of  San  Francisco  and  Santa 
Clara  built.  Many  are  furnished  with  metates,  earthen  pans,  round  pots,  stewing  pans 
and  even  little  ovens  for  cooking  bread,  while  others  have  much  more  than  these. 

"The  girls  and  the  unmarried  women  (wrongly  called  nuns)  are  gathered  together 
and  locked  up  at  night  in  their  quarters.  This  provision  is  taken  for  convenience  and 
it  may  be  said  for  necessity,  for  all  possible  care  is  taken  that  nothing  may  compromise 
their  safety.  It  has  been  observed  tliat  rarely  do  those  in  this  rank  and  station  die,  nor 
do  they  run  away  and  take  refuge  in  the  mountains.  They  have  spacious  rooms  fur- 
nished with  chairs  and  with  sufficient  ventilation.  Here  in  San  Carlos  (and  the  same 
will  happen  in  other  missions)  they  have  changed  their  dormitory  many  times,  seeking 
each  time  better  accomodation  until  they  have  been  able  to  construct  the  form  desired 
by  the  missionaries. 

""Vancouver,  A  I'cyage  of  Discovery,  II  472.  This  organ  was  still  in  use  in  18.^7,  wlien  Du 
Petit-Thouars  visited   the   mission. 

^'Representation.  Nov.  12,  1800,  in  Archivo  tic  la  Mision  dc  Santa  Barbara,  II,  179-181.  ".\unque 
Jos  .Mojnitos  de  los  Neofitos  no  sc  diferencian  en  sus  niateriales,  y  en  su  formacion  de  los  que  usan 
los  Gentiies,  jiero  si  en  la  linipicza,  y  hnena  condicion,  de  el  regularmte  andan  los  P,Iissioneros  y  aun 
tambien  los  Cliristianos  inejorando  la  disposicion  de  sus  casas,  y  raro  sera  el  que  se  acomode  ya  a 
vivir  en  choza  cstrccha,  como  la  t|ue  tenia  en  su  Cientilidad.  Kn  el  Canal  de  Sta  Barbara  nunca 
usaron  los  naturales  semejtes  chozas  estrechas,  spre  tubieron  a  diferencia  de  los  restantes  de  csta 
conquista  viviendos  suiicientemte  capaces.  Si  son  aliora  como  antes  de  palisada,  y  zacatc,  y  pr  eso 
cxpuestas  al  incendio,  cs  bien  sabido  (|ue  en  niuclios  anos,  ■  ni  en  misiones  ni  en  pueblos,  ni  en 
presidios  luvo  iglesias  abitaciones,  ni  oficianas  dc  otra  calidad.  Y  de  esta  misma  se  conserva  todabia 
algutias  piezas,  en  mnchas  partes  (juc  y  en  el  Rl  presidio  de  Sn  Franco  casi  todas.  .Segun  se  ha 
podido.  y  se  va  pudiendo  se  hacen  fabricas  de  adove,  o  de  piedra  techadas  de  teja.  .Asi  estan  ya, 
fiio  se  como  no  lo  ba  diio  el  Sor.  Govor.  o  algo  de  los  Comandtes]  las  casas  de  los  Indios,  de  Sn. 
Franco,  y  Sta.  Clara,  siirtidas  muchas  dc  mas,  y  se  iran  surtiendo  las  otras  de  nictates,  comales,  ollas 
cazuelas  ye  hta  de  ornitos  pa  coccr  pan.     .     .     .     A  lo  mismo  sc  aspira  en  las  dcmas  misiones. 

'*Las  muchachas  y  solteras  [Monjas  pr  mal  nomhre]  se  recogen,  y  se  encierran  de  noclic  en  un 
cuarto.  Si  esta  i)rovidcncia  sc  loma  pr  convtc  y  puede  decirsc  pr  nccesaria.  se  cuida  todo  lo  que 
cs  posibc  que  no  sea  en  perjuicio  de  su  salud.  Efectivamtc,  se  ha  obscrvado,  que  rara  de  las  dc 
cste  cslado,  y  regimen  se  nuieren,  si  no  es  de  las  que  dan  en  hnirse,  y  retirarse  al  monte.  Sc  tiencn 
pa  cso  piezas  capaces,  asendas,  y  dc  correspondtc  ventilacinn.  .\qui  en  Sn.  Carlos,  [y  succdcra  lo 
mismo  en  otras  missiones]  se  Ics  inudo  mucbes  veces  cl  dormitorio,  buscando  cada  vcz  mejor 
comodidad  hta  que  llcgo  cl   tpo  dc  poderlo  hacer  scgun   el   decco  dc   los  misioneros. 

"Es  por  cicrto  en  cl  dia  la  mejor  jiicza,  <iuc  fuera  de  la  Iglcsia  tiene  la  mission  de  17  varas  de 
largo  en  claro.  mas  dc  seis  de  ancbo.  y  otro  tanto  dc  alto:  paredcs  de  .ulobc  y  medio,  enjarradas  de 
mczcla  y  blanqucadas;  un  entarimado  fuerte.  y  bien  labrado,  corrido  pr  los  dos  costados  y  pr  una 
testcra.  dc  mas  de  vara  de  alto,  y  mas  de  dos  de  ancbo,  trcs  vcntanas  grandes  con  sus  rcjas  torneadas, 
pr  un  bado,  y  quatro  troneras  pr  otro,  su  lugar  comun  cs  pr  scparado,  y  todo  con  buena  vigueria 
cubicrta  con  tahlazon,  y  Iccho  de  teja." 


Plate  3.     San  Carlos  Mission,  iS2s-     Sketch  by  Win.   Smythe. 

This  sketch  appears  in  various  forms.  This  has  been  taken  from  an  engaving  published  by  Forbes 
in  his  History  of  California  in  1839.  It  gives  a  much  more  comprehensive  idea  of  the  mission  than 
does  the  Sykes  sketch  and  if  not  followed  with  too  slavish  attention  to  detail  may  be  taken  as  very 
satisfactory.  Several  buildings  are  to  be  seen  upon  the  hill  to  the  right  of  the  mission  church, 
while  to  the  left  is  shown  a  portion  of  the  building  enclosing  the  quadrangle.  The  road  from 
Monterey  is  shown  in  the  foreground  together  with  a  cross  which  may  have  marked  the  way  to  the 
mission. 


Plate    4.      San    Carlos    Mission,    .'.S'.w.      From    Laplace. 

Fortunately  the  artist  in  this  case  chose  a  point  of  observation  not  usually  taken  and  has  there- 
fore preserved  for  us  a  view  of  the  mission  from  the  hill  to  the  rear  of  the  mission  grounds.  It 
shows  the  enclosed  court  and  indicates  that  the  buildings  around  the  court  were  more  than  one 
story  in  height.  Since  it  is  merely  a  sketch,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  place  too  much  emphasis 
upon    details,    especially    if   these   are    in   conflict    with   other   evidence. 


29 


.10 


MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  3 1 

"It  is  a  fact  lliat  the  best  room  which  tlic  mission  has,  besides  the  church,  is  17 
varas  long  in  the  clear,  more  than  6  wide  and  as  much  more  in  hciglit ;  walls  an  adobe 
and  a  half  in  thickness  plastered  over  with  mortar  and  whitewashed;  a  strong  and  well- 
made  boarded  floor,  extended  on  two  sides  and  on  the  front,  of  more  than  a  vara  in 
height  and  more  than  two  in  width,  three  large  windows  with  round  iron  gratings,  on 
one  side,  and  four  smaller  windows  on  the  other,  .  .  .  the  whole  covered  with 
heavy  cross  beams  and  planks  with  a  roof  of  tiles." 

The  Mission  Oiiadniiiglc.  The  report  for  the  year  1815  records  that 
several  hnihhn^s  had  heen  constructed,  thus  enclosing'  the  quadrangle  or  court 
of  the  mission.'-'-  In  1818  a  small  chapel  was  built  adjoining  the  church. 
According  to  the  report  of  Fr.  Payeras  it  was  known  as  "la  capilla  a  la 
I'asion  del  Senor."  and  was  huilt  not  only  as  a  ]3lace  of  devotion  but  also  to 
preserve  the  okler  building  from  the  fury  of  the  strong  south  winds.  It 
was  provided  with  an  altar  and  painted  wood  carvings.-'' 

Erection  of  the  "J'ia  Cnicis."  i8?o.  For  the  year  1820  the  report  men- 
tions several  improvements  at  the  mission.  Two  bells  had  been  provided 
and  several  buildings  painted.  The  approacli  to  the  church  had  been 
adorned  with  a  "Via  Crucis.'"''  This  latter  is  more  fully  described  by  later 
observers.  Ca])t.  F.  W.  ISeechey.  who  visited  Monterey  in  December,  1827, 
thus  describes  tlie  approach  to  the  mission  :-° 

"The  ride  from  the  presidio  to  San  Carlos  on  a  fine  day  is  most  agreeable.  The 
scenery  is  just  sufficiently  picturesque  to  interest,  while  the  hills  are  not  so  abrupt  as 
to  inconvenience  a  bold  rider.  The  road  leads  principally  through  fine  pasture  lands, 
occasionally  wooded  with  tall  pine,  oak,  and  birch  trees ;  but  without  any  underwood 
to  give  it  a  wildjiess,  or  to  rob  it  of  its  park-like  aspect.  Before  the  valley  of  San 
Carmelo  opens  out,  the  traveller  is  apprized  of  his  approach  to  the  mission  by  three 
large  crosses  erected  upon  Mount  Calvary ;  and  further  on  by  smaller  ones  placed  at 
the  side  of  the  road,  to  tach  of  whicli  some  history  is  attached." 

Alvarado  says  a  portion  of  the  road  from  Monterey  to  San  Carlos  was 
known  as  that  of  Calvary,  that  twelve  crosses  were  planted  along  the  road 
at  equal  distances  representing  the  twelve  stations  of  the  "Via  Crucis,"  and 
that  on  Good  Friday  appropriate  religious  services  were  always  celebrated.-' 

Secularisation  of  the  Mission.  The  best  days  of  San  Carlos  were  over. 
The  annual  reports  make  mention  of  the  buildings  only  to  speak  of  their 
sad  condition.     In  1824  the  houses  and  workshops  had  their  roofs  renewed, 

--"Se  hail  hecho  50  varas  de  fabrica,  las  que  faltahan  jjara  cerrar  el  (juadro,  .v  plaza  de  la  niision 
y  se  han  remendado  las  fabricas  anteriores."  Informe  de  San  Carlos,  Dec.  31,  1815,  in  Archiz-o  de  las 
Misiones,  I,  Z72. 

-  Informe  de  San  Carlos.  Dec.  31,  1818,  in  Archk'O  Misiones.  Papelcs  Originates,  I,  432;  and  Pay- 
eras  report  of  ^lay  4,  1819,  "'La  fmision],  de  San  Carlos  ha  eregido  contigua  a  la  iglesia  una  capilla 
a  la  Pasion  del  Senor  que  exista  a  devocion  y  preserva  de  los  fuertos  sures  a  la  fabrica  vieja,"  in 
.4rcl!ivo   lie  Santa  Barbara.   XII,  98.      (Bancroft  Collectio'n,  ms.) 

=*Infornie  de  San  Carlos,  Dec.  31,  1820,  in  Archive  de  las  Misiones,  Papeles  Originates,  I,  328 
(Bancroft  Collection,  ms.),  "Se  han  puesto  dos  campaflas  la  una  grande  de  36  @,  [probably 
arroba,  equivalent  to  25  pounds],  y  la  otra  inediana  de  27  @:  se  ha  adornado  a  iglesia  con  una  Via 
Crucis  y  se  han  pintado  tres  colaterales. 

-•"'Beecbey,  Xarrat:;-e  of  a  I  'oyage  to  the  Pacific.  342. 

-'Hittell,  Historv  of  California,  I,  639-640.  One  of  these  crosses  may  be  seen  in  the  Snivthe 
sketch  of  1823.      (Plate  3.) 


32  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

but  tlie  walls  of  the  garden  were  down  and  other  repairs  were  needed."' 
This  decline  in  the  prosperity  of  the  mission  was  due  not  only  to  conditions 
within  the  missions  themselves  but  also  and  in  larger  measure  to  the  manner 
in  which  they  were  treated  by  the  Mexican  government.  In  January,  183 1, 
a  decree  of  secularization  was  issued  by  Echeandia.  According  to  this 
order  San  Carlos  and  San  Gabriel  were  to  be  organized  at  once  into  towns, 
the  surplus  property  after  distribution  to  the  neophytes  passing  under  the 
control  of  secular  administrators.-* 

A  change  in  administration  whereby  Echeandia  was  displaced  l)y  Manuel 
Victoria  prevented  the  putting  of  this  order  into  effect,-"  and  the  controversy 
regarding  the  secularization  of  the  California  missions  continued  for  some 
years  longer.  Finally  on  November  4,  1834,  the  act  of  secularization  was 
adopted  and  announced  by  Governor  Figueroa.  By  it  San  Carlos  and 
Monterey  were  combined  as  a  curacy  of  the  first  class.""  In  accordance 
with  the  plan  of  secularization  an  inventory  was  made  of  the  property  of 
the  various  missions.  That  of  San  Carlos,  dated  December  10,  1834,  valued 
the  mission  property  at  approximately  $46,022.  Of  this  the  church  itself 
is  estimated  at  $10,000;  the  furniture,  vestments,  library,  etc.,  at  $10,217.''^ 

San  Carlos  in  Ruins,  18^6-41.  In  October,  1836,  the  United  States  ship 
■'Peacock"  stopped  at  Monterey  on  its  way  from  the  Orient  where  Mr. 
Edmund  Roberts  as  special  agent  of  the  United  States  government  had 
been  engaged  in  a  diplomatic  mission.  .\  visit  was  made  to  the  San  Carlos 
mission  which  is  described  as  follows  :''- 

".\t  this  time  there  are  twenty-one  missions  in  L'pper  California,  all  of  which  are  in 
a  state  of  decay.  I  visited  that  at  Carmelo,  which  I  found  in  ruins,  and  almost  aban- 
doned. It  is  about  four  miles  from  Monte-rey.  Tlie  r^ad  to  it  is  easy,  and  agreeably 
varied  by  hill  and  dale,  everywhere  covered  by  pine  and  other  forest  trees,  and  remark- 
alily  free  from  undergrowth. 

"The  mission  building  is,  perhaps,  a  hundred  yards  square,  one  story  high,  and 
roofed  with  tiles.  We  rode  through  the  gate,  which  was  just  ready  to  fall  from  its 
hinges,  into  the  great  central  court,  round  which  it  is  built,  where  we  found  eight  or 
ten  Indians  engaged  in  repairing  the  roof.  They  informed  us  that  the  Padre  was  at 
the  presidio,  or  garrison,  and  that  there  was  no  one  to  show  us  the  church,  which, 
exteriorly,  was  in  a  dilapidated  state.  All  the  windows  opened  in  upon  the  court,  and 
were  heavily  barred  with  iron,  with  the  design  of  preventing  the  escape  of  the  chris- 
tian neophytes,  who  were  locked  up  at  night  in  apartments  to  which  these  windows 
give  light  and  air.  Some  of  those  were  open.  They  were  strewed  with  rubbish  and 
fdth,  and,  altogether,  in  a  worse  condition  than  the  commonest  stable  should  be." 


■-'Informc  de  San  Carlos,  Dec.  i\.  )SJ_'.  in  .■lrrlu;-o  ilc  Ins  Misioiics,  Pnl'clcs  Originah's,  I,  5.'5, 
1824,  Ihid,  I,  759  (Bancroft  CoUecticni.  msj.  "Ivn  la  igk-sia  y  sacristia  c-xistcn  los  1  utL-nsiliusJ.  dc  los 
anos  antcriores,  a  excc-pcion  (le  algunas  cosas  de  poca  consideracion  que  se  lia  disparecido  y  se 
procura  dc  poncr  y  sc  lia  anadido  un  crucifijo  Rrandc  cuatro  santos  de  talla  grande  que  son  N.  S. 
P.  S.  Franco.  .St.  Domingo.  S.  Piuenavcntura  y  .St.  Clara.  La  casa  y  demas  oficinas  se  lian  tecliado, 
no  se  lia  hcclio  fabriea  ninguna.  Las  parades  en  la  huerta  sc  han  eaido.  veremos  si  se  puerlen  levantar 
del  afto.     Las  lierraniienlas  en  casa  y  campo  poco  mas  o  menos  subsisten  como  los  anos  anteriores." 

^Tiancroft,    III,    iOSCi. 

^^Ibid  TIT,  Chaps.  XI,  XII;  Richman,  California  Under  Stain  and  Mexico,  228  et  seci. ;  Engel- 
liardt.   III,   .111-360. 

»Kngelhardt,  III,  S3\. 

"'Ibid,  III.  534. 

»=Ruschcnl)erger,  /I    Voyage  round  the  -aorld,   in   iS.!,^,   !!S,16  and  ;S.,7   ( Pliiladeliiliia.   18.18),   507. 


MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  33 

The  next  year  the  Freiicli  explorer  Aliel  Dii  Petit-Thouars  was  along  this 
coast  and  visited  the  ruins  of  the  niis.^ion  in  Carmel  X'alley.  His  description 
of  the  condition  of  the  establishment  as  seen  at  that  time  is  as  follows  :^''- 

"Upon  our  arrival  at  the  mission  of  San  Carlos  we  were  struck  by  the  solitude  of  the 
place  and  by  the  state  of  ruin  in  which  the  buildings  were  found.  The  grounds  sur- 
rounding this  establishment,  formerly  covered  with  rich  crops,  did  not  offer  more  to  the 
eye  than  a  picture  of  the  most  complete  sterility.  Through  a  little  door  we  entered  a 
large  court  shaped  like  a  parallelogram  ;  this  court  is  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  the 
dwellings  of  the  neophytes ;  the  fourth  is  occupied  by  the  storerooms  for  the  reserve 
food  supply.  A  large  wooden  cross  still  stood  in  the  center  of  this  enclosure.  In  one 
of  the  corners  of  the  court  is  the  church,  the  principal  door  of  which  opens  on  the 
field  outside  of  tire  mission,  but  one  is  able  to  communicate  with  the  establishment  by 
means  of  a  small  lateral  chapel.  We  saw  no  one  upon  entering  the  court  of  the 
mission  :  it  was  deserted !  the  lodgings  were  without  doors  and  windows  and  the  roofs, 
broken  in  many  places,  were  already  giving  way  under  their  own  weight.  On  visiting 
the  part  at  the  north  of  the  mission  we  entered  a  large  room,  dark  and  without  furni- 
ture, where  we  met  Father  Josc-Maiii  del  Real,  the  sole  surviving  ecclesiastic  at  the 
mission  :  that  religious  was  one  of  those  who  had  been  sent  out  from  the  college  of 
Zacatecas.  After  a  reception  at  first  dubious,  he  recovered  from  the  surprise  which 
our  appearance  had  caused  him ;  he  became  very  polite  and  with  great  courtesy  showed 
us  about  the  ruins  :  we  visited  with  him  the  ruined  buildings  in  the  midst  of  which  he 
lived  without  society,  and,  judging  from  appearances,  very  miserably.  Two  or  three 
families  of  Indians,  fixed  by  habit,  still  lived  in  the  ruins  which  surrounded  the  mis- 
sion. .  .  .  The  garden  of  the  mission,  situated  on  the  ground  which  stretches  out  in 
a  gentle  slope  from  the  mission  to  the  edge  of  the  river  Carmelo,  offers  scarcely  any 
signs  of  cultivation.  Formerly  very  fertile,  the  garden  produced  in  abundance  all  the 
vegetables  and  fruits  necessary  not  only  for  the  establishment,  but  also  for  the  town 
of  Monterey  an"d  for  vessels  in  port.  At  present  it  is  entirely  abandoned,  the  fence  no 
longer  remains,  and  the  few  fruit  trees  which  are  still  to  be  seen  here  yield  scarcely 
any  produce,  and  that  is  aUva\s  consumed  before  it  attains  a  suitable  degree  of 
maturity. 

"Afterwards  we  went  to  visit  the  church,  entering  through  the  lateral  chapel  which 
gives  access  to  the  church  through  the  court  of  the  mission.  Upon  entering  the  chapel 
I  noticed  several  paintings  on  wood  which  represented  subjects  delineated  in  the  holy 
scriptures ;  but  my  attention  was  particularly  attracted  by  the  sight  of  a  large  painting 
of  San  Isidro  el  labrador  [patron  of  the  laliorers],  which  is  at  the  left  upon  entering 
the  chapel.  It  was  hanging  at  an  angle  by  one  of  the  upper  corners  of  the  frame.  In 
this  position  the  saint  and  his  plough  looked  upside  down.  Our  reverend  guide,  after 
having  pointed  out  to  me  the  painting  to  the  right,  made  three  genuflections  and  as 
many  signs  of  the  cross  and  afterwards  appeared  absorbed  in  profound  meditation 
from  which  I  could  scarcely  rouse  him.  I  wished  to  know  the  reason  for  these  par- 
ticular devotions,  suspecting  that  a  little  of  the  supernatural  might  well  have  become 
mingled  with  an  event  in  itself  perfectly  natural.  At  last,  pressed  by  me  to  declare  this 
mystery,  the  reverer.d  father,  in  a  tone  of  great  sorrow  and  in  a  deep  voice,  informed 
me  that  during  an  earthquake  this  picture  had  been  thus  disarranged  and  that  surely 
this  catastrophe  had  been  the  manifestation  of  tire  will  of  God  and  a  definite  prediction 
of  the  ruin  of  the  missions.  After  these  words  the  brother,  don  Jose,  crossed  himself 
again  and  relapsed  into  his  pious  reveries!  Until  recently  there  could  be  seen  in  the  . 
church  a  picture  which  represented  La  Perousc  arriving  at  the  mission  of  San  Carlos 


■'■'Dii  Petit-TIiouars.  ]'ox(igc  luitonr  d't  ttwtidc  siir  la  frcnatc  La  Venus,  pendant  Ics  annccs  fS^fyiHy), 
11,   lloljn.     Translated  from  the  Frencli  text. 


34  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

and  the  brilliant   reception   which  was  tendered  him  by  all  the  mission  :   this  picture 
disappeared  at  the  time  of  the  departure  of  the  Spanish  missionaries.     .     .     . 

"We  also  saw  in  the  church  a  portable  organ  given  at  one  time  by  Captain  Van- 
couver to  the  president  of  the  missions  of  California  whom  he  met  at  the  port  of  San 
Diego.  That  organ,  of  an  extreme  Gothic  type,  must  have  been  very  beautiful :  it  was 
not  yet  entirely  out  of  service." 

The  next  recorded  visit  to  the  mission  was  made  by  Laplace,  a  French 
traveler  in  1839.  The  author  does  not  discuss  the  mission  but  fortunately 
incorporates  a  sketch  of  the  establishment  as  it  was  seen  at  that  time.''' 
This  sketch  is  herewith  reproduced  (plate  4). 

\\'hen  visited  in  1841  by  Duflot  de  Mofras.  the  ruin  of  the  mission  was 
complete,  the  padre  even  having  removed  to  the  neighboring  town  of 
Monterey.     He  speaks  of  the  mission  as  follows  :''■' 

"The  mission  of  Mount  Carmel,  situated  at  the  nortliern  extremity  of  the  Sierra  de 
Santa  Lucia  and  hemmed  in  by  the  mountains,  is  no  longer  a  flourishing  institution. 
In  1834  it  still  assembled  five  hundred  neophytes;  it  had  three  thousand  horned  cattle, 
seven  liundred  horses,  seven  thousand  sheep  and  harvested  fifteen  hundred  fanegas  of 
grain.  Today  all  has  gone ;  under  the  pretext  of  forming  a  pueblo  in  the  vicinity,  the 
mission  was  allowed  to  fall  in  ruins.  The  Indian  population  is  composed  of  not  more 
than  thirty  individuals.  This  establishment,  as  also  the  one  at  Soledad,  lying  nearest 
the  scat  of  government,  was  one  of  the  first  to  be  despoiled.  The  missionary  in 
charge  of   Carmel   now   resides   at   Monterey." 

Under  American  Control.  In  July,  1846,  the  American  flag  was  raised 
at  Monterey  by  the  forces  of  the  United  States  Navy.  This  change  in 
jurisdiction  was  fully  recognized  by  the  treaty  of  1848  whereby  the  territory 
was  definitely  ceded  b)'  Ale.xico. 

Already  a  number  of  American  settlers  had  immigrated  to  California, 
but  the  discovery  of  gold  in  1848  caused  an  unprecedented  rush  to  the  new 
region.  Among  these  people  were  many  wdio  recorded  their  observations 
in  articles  or  books  and  thus  give  descriptions  of  the  incidents,  scenes  and 
places  of  interest  that  attracted  their  attention.  Many  of  them  give  accounts 
of  the  missions.  L'nfortunately  most  of  these  writings  are  a  mixture  of 
vague  historical  accounts  with  indefinite  descriptions  of  the  ruined  missions, 
one  pleasing  exception  to  this  lieing  the  account  given  by  J.  R.  Liartlett  of 
the  United  States  and  Mexican  lifiundary  Commission,  wiio  visiteil  Monterey 
in  April,  1852.     He  says:''" 

"The  Mission  establishment,  which  consists  of  a  church  and  the  usual  accompani- 
ments of  a  large  inclosure  with  ranges  of  small  buildings,  stands  upon  a  little  eleva- 
tion between  the  hills  and  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  distant  only  a  few  hundred  yards. 
The  church  which  is  built  of  stone,  has  two  towers,  containing  si.x  bells ;  its  walls  are 
very  thick,  with  an  arched  roof,  and  supported  by  heavy  buttresses.  The  towers,  as 
usual,  differ.  The  adobe  buildings  near,  were  all  in  a  state  of  ruin,  and  tenantless;  not 
a  human  being  was  to  be  seen  near,  while  the  rank  grass  and  weeds  which  monopo- 

"*I,ai)Iacc,  Cnmf^agnc  dc  circumtiaTtgation  dc  la  frcgatc  I'Artcmisc,  pendant  les  annces  lSs7,  iSs^. 
1S39  and  IS./O.    (Paris,   1841-54),  vi,  294. 

■■"Duflot  fie  Mofras,  F.xfdoraiion  du  territoirc  de  I'Oregou,  des  Californies  et  dc  la  incr  I'enneille, 
excculee  pciidani  les  aiitiecs  iS^O.   1S41   el  lS^2.  (Paris,  .\.  r.L-rlranil,   1S4I).  I.  .I'M-.'.  Translaliil  finm 
the  I'rcncli. 

"*^nartlett.   Personal  h'ayrali-,'e,    H,  ;". 


2     »1  2   '1 

4^ 


i 

s 
-5 

1 

1 

, 

S 

•7  *  "  " 

u;      :      =       .      .  ,  t    N    i     •      '      .      ■      .     -v   *   ^ 

S  4'  ■»■  =>- 
•^  <^  ^  ^ 

-rto*-"-"^*"-)   ?;s!:?tt::? 

■s   «    1  =r- 

Pi,.\Ti;  7.      Kuins  uf  San   CarU'S,   about  jS,6. 

This  photograph  by  Muybridge  is  a  very  early  picture  of  the  mission  ruins  and  is  of  value  in 
that  it  gives  many  items  of  detail  regarding  the  buildings  in  front  of  and  adjoining  the  church.  The 
ruined  wall  in  the  foreground  to  the  right  retained  the  doorway  leading  into  the  court,  while  it  also 
shows  the  floor  timbers  and  windows  for  the  rooms  of  the  second  floor.  The  markings  upon  the 
Iruul  of  the  church   show  plainly   the-  heiglit   and   slant  of  the   roof  line. 


Plate  ».     Restoration  of  San  Carlos  Mission  by  Oriana  Day,  tHii^. 
Tliis  must   not  he  taken  as  of  the  same  value  as  the  photographs,  or  sketches,  but  merely   as  an 
attempt   of   an   artist   to   reproduce  a   scene   at  the   mission   as  it   had   been   described.      It   is  said   to 
represent  the  ideas  of  General  M.  G.  Vallcjo  as  he  saw  the  mission  before  the  time  of  secularization. 


36 


MISSION    SAN    C.\KI/)S  37 

lized  tile  ground,  showed  that  even  curiosity  did  not  often  tempt  visitors  to  its 
deserted  precincts.  One  corner  of  the  church  began  to  show  the  ravages  of  time  :  its 
cornice  had  talkn,  and  weeds  had  already  taken  root  among  its  opening  crevices.  The 
remains  of  an  orchard  and  vineyard,  are  still  seen  near,  in  a  decaying  state.  Small 
pine  trees  cover  the  hills  within  a  short  distance  of  the  church  ;  and  on  its  other  side, 
the  ocean  rolls  up  its  waves  with  a  dull  monotonous  sound,  which  adds  to  the  solitary 
.  feeling  of  the  place." 

Title  Confirmed  to  Church,  1859.  Whereas  it  had  been  the  plan  of  the 
Mexican  g-overnment,  under  the  excuse  of  secularization,  to  exploit  the 
missions  and  jilace  their  ])roperty  for  sale,  it  l)ecame  the  pohc}'  of  the  United 
States  government  to  confirm  to  the  church  authorities  full  title  to  those 
lands  that  had  been  used  for  religious  purposes,  such  as  the  church  site, 
burial  grounds,  orchards  and  gardens.  In  accordance  with  this  policy  the 
United  States  Land  Commission  awarded  to  Bishop  J.  S.  Alemany,  as  head 
of  the  Catholic  Church  in  California,  the  title  to  a  tract  of  land  containing 
nine  acres  known  as  Mission  Carmelo.  The  land  was  first  surveyed  by  the 
church  authorities  in  1854  when  presenting  their  claims  before  the  United 
States  District  Court  (plate  5).  This  is  the  first  survey  extant  of  the  mission 
buildings  and  lands.  An  official  survey  (plate  6)  was  made  by  the  United 
States  government  in  December,  1858,  and  formed  the  basis  for  the  issuance 
of  the  patent  which  was  granted  the  church  authorities  October  19,  1859.-" 

Later  Descriplioiis  and  Photographs.  The  ruins  of  San  Carlos,  the  roof 
of  which  fell  in  during  the  year  1852,"'*  continued  to  attract  people  interested 
in  the  romantic  and  picturesc|ue.  Mr.  H.  H.  Bancroft,  after  a  visit  to  the 
mission  in  1874,  wrote  the  following  description  of  the  church  as  it  then 
appeared :  ■" 

"The  cliurch  is  strong  and  well  built,  of  irregularly  hewn  stone  with  a  timbered  roof 
on  which  had  been  laid  brush  or  stick  and  covered  with  tiles.  The  building  was  in  a 
state  of  ruins,  part  of  the  roof  was  otif  but  most  of  the  walls   were  standing.     It   is 


"^The  "Alemany  Plat,"  so  called,  is  preserved  with  the  plats  of  the  other  twenty  missions  in 
the  Archives  of  the  United  States  District  Court,  San  Francisco.  Plate  5  is  a  reproduction  of  this 
document.  Since  all  the  other  plats  accompanying  this  one  indicate  the  survey  as  Having  been  made 
during  the  fall  of  185-1,  that  date  is  assumed  for  this  also.  It  is  to  be  noted  that  this  plat  gives  more 
definite  information  regarding  the  quadrangle  buildings  than  does  the  United  States  Survey  made. four 
years  later. 

The  second  plat  is  herewith  reproduced  (plate  6)  as  preserved  in  the  Surveyor  General's  Archives, 
San  Francisco.  The  field  notes  describing  the  mission  buildings  are  taken  from  the  Monterey  County 
Archives  and  read  as  follows:  "Beginning  at  a  stake  marked  ".V.  1."  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
cemetery.  Thence  .  .  .  south  28°  45'  east,  95  links  [62.7  feet]  to  the  corner  of  the  Church 
liuildings,  1.40  chains  [92.1  feet]  to  station,  at  the  angle  formed  by  the  church  and  adjoining  build- 
ings. Thence,  along  the  line  of  buildings  63'*  45'  east  2.65  chains  [175  feet]  to  station  at  a 
corner  of  the  buildings.  Thence  south  31"  30'  east,  1.60  chains  [105.6  feet]  to  station,  at  corner  as 
above.  Thence  north  58"  30'  east,  15  links  [9.92  feet]  to  station  at  corner  as  above.  Thence  south 
31°  30'  east,  2  chains  [132  feet]  to  station  at  corner  as  above.  Thence  south  58°  30'  west,  15  links 
[9.92  feet]  to  station  at  coi-ner  as  above.  Thence  south  31°  30'  east,  74  links  [48.8  feet]  to  station 
at  corner  above.  Thence  south  58°  30'  west,  30  links  [19.8  feet]  to  station  at  corner  as  above 
Thence  north  31°  30'  west,  41  links  [27.1  feet]  to  station  at  Old  Adobe  Wall.  Thence  along  the 
ruins  of  an  old  adobe  wall  south,  59°  west,  5.  IS  chain's  [342  feet]  to  a  point  marked  'A'  station. 
Thence  north  31°  west,  4.44  chains  [293  feet]  to  station  at  point  of  intersection  of  the  old  wall 
with  a  row  of  cliurch  buildings.  Tiience  along  the  line  of  church  buildings  south  63°  45'  west,  36 
links  [23.6  feet]  to  station  at  corner  of  buildings.  Thence  north  30°  30'  west  51  links  [33.66  feet] 
to  station  at  corner  of  buildings.  Thence  north  57°  east,  60  links  [39.6  feet]  to  station  at  corner 
of  buildings.  Thence  north  26°  15'  west,  at  40  links  [26.4  feet]  leaves  the  line  of  church  buildings  ' 
and  along  the  ruins  of  the  old  adobe  wall  of  the  cemetery,  1.10  chains  [72.5  feet]  to  a  point 
marked  'A'  station.  Thence  along  the  north  boundary  of  the  cemetery,  north  68°  15'  east,  2.51 
chains  [165.66  feet]  to  the  point  of  beginning."  Archives  of  the  Recorder,  Patents  A,  435-436. 
'"Hutchings,  California  Magazine.  IV  (1859-60),  496. 
=»H.   H.    Bancroft.   Personal   observations,    1874,   p.    210-211. 


38  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

10  by  56  varus,  tlie  sacristy  7  by  14  varas.  The  walls  were  built  without  lime  with  an 
adobe  mortar,  except  the  finer  ornamented  stone  work  about  the  doors  and  windows 
which  were  put  together  with  cement,  or  lime  mortar.  Six  stone  arches  two  feet 
wide  thrown  over  head  forming  part  of  the  ceiling  still  remained  standing,  though  ap- 
parently ready  to  fall  without  much  warning,  threads  of  tottering  stone-work.  Bent 
pieces   of   timber   overlaid   the   stone   arches." 

Fortunately  new  elements  now  appear  which  have  been  found  of  great 
value  to  those  now  interested  in  reconstructing  the  missions.  In  the  place 
of  vague  descriptions  and  sketches  whose  accuracy  is  open  to  serious  ques- 
tion, lovers  of  bygone  days  began  to  take  a  more  scientific  interest  in  pre- 
serving a  true  record  of  the  state  of  the  missions  as  they  had  been  in  their 
prime,  the  camera  also  began  to  come  into  use  with  exact  photographic  repro- 
ductions of  such  ruins  as  remained.  In  this  manner  many  important  details 
overlooked  by  the  writers  and  now  long  since  obliterated  have  been  preserved 
for  all  time. 

Among  the  earlier  artists  and  photographers  who  have  shown  a  special 
interest  in  the  missions  several  names  should  be  mentioned.  Among  these  are 
Eduard  \'ischer,  C.  W.  J.  Jnhnson,  C.  E.  Watkins,  E.  J.  ^luybridge,  Perkins, 
Fiske  and  Taber,  all  of  whom  have  made  valuable  contributions.*"  First  in 
time,  if  not  in  importance,  is  Eduard  Vischer,  whose  mission  sketches  consti- 
tute a  most  valuable  legacy.  Three  of  these  sketches  are  views  of  San  Carlos ; 
unfortunately,  however,  since  they  are  among  his  earliest  work  they  do  not 
give  as  much  information  as  one  would  desire.  Writing  in  1872,  he  says  of 
San  Carlos  -^^ 

"This  mission,  after  an  occupation  of  half  a  century,  was,  like  others  subsequent  to 
the  secularization  neglected,  and  finally  abandoned — and  now  only  exhibits  deserted 
walls.  Besides  the  natural  causes  of  dilapidation,  vandalism  was  at  work,  wantonly 
defacing  the  interior  of  the  cinircb ;  more  than  all.  the  antiquarian  mania  and  destruct- 
ive energy  of  one  of  the  ^Monterey  priests,  who,  in  the  fruitless  search  for  Father 
Junipero's  remains,  upturning  the  graves  of  several  generations,  removed  the  altar, 
and,  as  a  precaution  against  accident  to  the  workmen  there  employed,  had  a  great 
portion  of  the  roof  taken  oft^,  which  was  never  replaced,  and,  subsequently,  tire  rafters, 
tiles,  and  all  serviceable  materi.-d  were  carried  ofl^  for  tlic  use  of  neighboring  settlers." 

The  reference  to  vandalism  is  amplihcd  in  a  note  which  states  that  "on 
the  occasion  of  modern  clam  and  chowder  picnics  and  whisky  sprees,  more 
than  once  bonfires  were  lighted  in  the  deserted  church,  using  door  frames 
anil  ])aneling  as  convenient  fuel."'  At  other  times  mounted  men  rode 
through  the  buildings  amusing  themselves  firing  their  revolvers  at  the 
images  and  other  objects. 


**Somc  of  Johnson's  photographs  nvv  rcprocUiced  in  the  frontispiece  and  hv  olates  11  and  12. 
Plate  7  is  from  a  Muybridge  photograph,  plates  10  and  41  from  Fiske,  plate  9  from  Watkins  and 
plate  21  from  Perkins. 

"\'ischer.  Missions  nf  Ufl'cr  Califoniia,  1872,  (San  Francisco,  1872),  appendix  i-ii.  He  first 
visited  California  in  1842.  .\t  that  time,  while  many  of  the  missions  had  been  practically  abandoned, 
they  still  gave  evidence  of  the  greatness  of  earlier  d,iys.  He  again  came  to  California  with  the  gold 
seekers  and  in  1861  began  the  task  of  preserving  by  means  of  carefully  executed  sketches  tlie 
record  of  the  missions  as  they  tlien  were.  .\rchives  were  consulted  and  ruin  heaps  carefully 
examined  in  order  that  the  work  niiBht  he  done  with  accuracy.     The  collection  was  completed  in  1878. 


Plate    9.      Sun   Callus  Cliiirch   before  iSl'O. 

This  enla-rgement  from  a  stereo  by  Watkins  is  valuable  not  only  as  showing  the  condition  of  the 
church  at  the  date  indicated  but  also  for  other  features  of  detail.  The  most  striking  feature  is 
probably  the  exposed  arch  supporting  the  rnof.  Attention  is  also  called  to  the  remains  of  a  wall 
in  the  foreground  to  the  left  and  to  the  do  irway  into  the  dome  on  the  larger  tower.  This  is  repro- 
duced  from  a  stereograph   in  the   State  Library. 


umit'-Ji'j^;-'''*^ 


I'l 


^tin  (  arios  L  hureh  about  16^2. 


This  is  a  view  similar  to  tlie  preceding,  but  taken  at  a  later  date,  is  evidenced  by  the  more 
ruined  condition  of  the  roof.  Attention  is  here  called  to  the  cross  timbers,  the  ends  of  which  are 
visible  along  the  stone  walls;  to  the  buttresses,  which  are  also  well  reproduced;  as  well  as  the  remains 
of  the  high  wall  around  the  smaller  burial  ground.  It  should  also  be  noted  in  this  as  in  the 
preceding  photograph  that  the  sacristy  had  been  covered  by  a  roof  of  shakes  at  an  earlier  date. 
This  is  a  Fiske  photograph  (No.  601)   from  a  copy  made  by  Mr.  C.  B.  Turrill  from  liis  collection. 


iO 


Plate  11.      Sau  Carlos  Mission  Chiirrh.  about   /.S'.V,'. 
Johnson,  photo. 


Platk  12.     San  Carlos  Mission  Church,  After  the  Keslortition  of  iSS^. 
Johnson,  photo. 


40 


MISSION    SAN    CAKLOS  4I 

More  thorough  work  in  photographing  tlie  missions  was  done  hy  C.  \i. 
Watkins  in  the  late  seventies  and  early  eighties.  Eduard  \'ischer,  a  con- 
temporary critic,  says  of  his  views : 

"His    fine   conception   and    splendid   effects    deserve    the    highest   encomium.     .     . 
Could   views  of  similar  merit  and   cfifects  have  been   taken   in   early   times  of  all   the 
missions  as   they  stood  within   our  recollection,   such  undertaking,  now  greatly  inter- 
ferred   with   by  decay  as  well   as   many   renovations,  would   have  been  of  inestimable 
value  to  the  historian  or  antiquary." 

Mission  Restoration.  No  account  of  the  history  of  San  Carlos  Mission 
would  he  complete  that  did  not  consider  the  various  attempts  at  repair  and 
restoration,  some  of  which  has  greatly  modified  the  form  and  appearance 
of  the  mission  church. 

The  first  recorded  action  of  this  character  was  made  by  Father  Sorentine, 
the  parish  priest,  in  March,  1856.  At  this  time  little  or  no  attempt  was 
made  to  repair  or  restore  the  ruined  buildings,  but  only  to  locate  the  body 
of  Father  vSerra  among  the  ruins  of  the  stone  church.  In  writing  the 
results  of  this  investigation.  Father  Sorentine  says  :*- 

"The  next  day,  the  11th  [of  March],  the  dirt  that  was  in  the  altar  fell  on  the  gospel 
side  and  following  the  traditional  directions,  we  began  to  e.xcavate  and  we  found  in 
this  one  a  well  sealed  vault,  with  a  coffin,  in  which  there  was  a  priest  with  a  stole  and 
good  vestments.  We  could  see  by  the  stole  that  it  had  epaulettes  of  fine  gold,  easily 
recognized.  This  body  of  a  priest  that  we  found,  so  luxuriously  vested,  something 
that  none  of  the  others  had,  makes  me  believe  that  it  is  one  we  are  looking  for." 

But  little  was  done  until  about  1884  when  a  new  interest  in  the  mission 
was  aroused  by  the  opening  of  the  resort  at  Del  Monte.  Mrs.  Leland 
Stanford  and  others  became  interested  in  the  ruined  mission  and  plans 
were  made  to  render  the  church  once  again  suitable  for  worship.  By  this 
time  practically  the  entire  roof  had  fallen  in  and  many  of  the  walls,  espe- 
cially those  at  the  south  corner,  had  crumbled  and  fallen.  As  the  result  of 
this  endeavor,  the  church  was  once  again  habilitated,  the  walls  being  rebuilt 
and  a  new  roof  placed  upon  it. 

Unfortunately,  however,  at  this  time  repair  was  considered  more  impor- 
tant than  restoration,  the  result  being  a  repaired  church  which  artistically 
was  far  inferior  to  the  original  structure.  The  chief  and  outstanding  fault 
was  that  the  new  roof  line  was  twelve  or  more  feet  higher  than  the  older 
one  and  consequently  at  a  much  greater  pitch.  The  former  tile  roof  was 
low  and  with  its  gentle  slope  gave  the  church  an  appearance  of  greater 
length  and  beauty.     The  new  roof  with  its  exaggerated  prominence  gives 


'-Letter  of  Cayetano  Sorentine   to   Bishol'  Amat.   Monterey,   March    12,    1856,   in   the    Delfina   dc  la 
Guerra  Collection,  Santa   Barbara.     Translated  by  Miss  de  la  Guerra. 


42  ARCHITECTURAI,    HISTORY 

the  towers  a  squatty  appearance  unknown  to  the  padres,  and  otherwise 
entirely  changes  the  appearance  of  the  church.  This  was  to  some  extent 
made  necessary  by  tlie  substitution  of  shingles  for  the  old  tile  roofing, 
although  it  is  probable  that  even  with  this  in  mind  the  original  line  could 
have  been  more  closely  followed.  No  attempt  was  made  at  that  time  to 
restore  any  of  the  outlying  buildings  which  composed  the  quadrangle. 


ARCHITECTURAL  FEATURES 


ARCHITECTURAL  FEATURES 

The  first  Slnicliircs,  J771-177S.  The  first  buildings  constructed  on  tlic 
Carniel  site  were  made  of  wood,  easily  oljtained  in  abundance  from  the  nearby 
forest  of  pines.  Both  Palou  in  his  Xoticias  and  Serra  in  his  report  of 
1773  describe  these  teni])orary  buildinL;s  and  the  rude  stockade,  which  during 
the  earlier  years. served  as  an  additional  protection  against  pilfering  and  pos- 
sible hostile  attacks  of  the  natives. 

This  stockade,  which  Serra  says  was  something  more  than  seventy  varas 
long  by  forty-three  wide,  was  made  of  rough  palings.  It  enclosed  most  of 
the  mission  buildings  but  not  all  of  them,  for  the  soldiers'  barracks  were 
just  outside.  In  a  prominent  place  was  the  cross  and  near  at  hand  the  hut 
of  Father  Serra  and  another  crude  structure  which  served  in  part  as  the 
provisional  church.  Palou  says  further  that  this  chapel  was  one  of  six  rooms 
in  a  house  fifty  by  seven  varas  in  size,  four  of  the  rooms  being  used  as  living 
quarters  and  another  as  a  store  room  or  granary.  These  were  all  built  of 
wood  and  had  fiat  mud  roofs.  That  they  were  not  permanent  buildings  may 
be  judged  from  the  nature  of  the  material  of  which  they  were  constructed,  as 
well  as  by  the  fact  that  they  were  erected  in  such  a  very  short  time  when 
laborers  were  scarce.  Palou  mentions  onl\-  twelve  men  as  working  with 
Father  Serra. ■*■' 

Other  Build  ill  i^s,  777-/.  Several  other  Ituildings  were  constructed  tiuring 
1774.  As  they  were  built  partially  of  adobe  it  is  probable  that  they  were 
more  permanent  in  character.  Serra  mentions  five  buildings  about  thirty  by 
seven  varas  in  size,  as  being  constructed  that  year.  One  of  these  served  as  a 
work  shop,  two  were  for  married  servants,  one  was  for  the  surgeon  and 
another  for  the  smith.  Another  wooden  building  with  thatch  roof  w-as  built 
for  the  captain  of  the  guard.  The  record  does  not  say  that  these  buildings 
were  within,  or  a  part  of,  the  enclosure  mentioned  the  year  before,  and  from 
the  fact  that  no  enclosure  is  mentioned  thereafter  until  the  completion  of  the 
later  court  in  181 5,  it  is  very  probable  that  with  the  construction  of  more 
secure  buildings  the  temporary  stockade  had  been  abandoned.  These  build- 
ings were  grouped  around  the  open  space  spoken  of  as  the  mission  plaza. 
The  location  of  these  early  buildings  in  relationship  to  the  later  court  and 
ruins  now  extant  must  be  largely  a  matter  of  conjecture.''* 

The  .-idobe  Church.  It  is  regretted  that  reports  are  not  available  for  the 
twenty  years  following  1774,  the  only  evidence  at  hand  being  passing"  refer- 
ences found  in  the  account  of  the  death  and  burial  of  Father  Serra  in  1784, 
and  at  the  time  of  the  visit  of  Laperouse  in  1786.  From  these  we  gather 
that  Serra  was  then  living  in  a  small  room  or  cell  made  of  adobe,  which  was 


"See  historical  statement,  ante,  18. 

**For  their  conjectural  location  and  form  see  plate  44. 


46  ARCHITECTURAI,    HISTORY 

a  part  of  and  closely  connected  with  several  other  rooms  :  that  the  church  was 
about  one  hundred  varas  from  Serra's  cell :  and  that  the  former  was  of  con- 
siderable size  since  it  could  accommodate  nearly  all  of  the  six  hundred  people 
present  at  Serra's  funeral.  This  church  had  a  place  for  the  choir,  a  side 
room  used  as  a  sacristy,  and  there  were  several  stations  of  the  cross  within 
the  church.  Laperouse  in  1786  speaks  of  this  church  as  being  "very  neat, 
although  covered  with  straw,"  and  says  that  the  president  of  the  mission  met 
him  at  the  church  door  and  conducted  him  to  the  foot  of  the  "high  altar."^^ 

From  these  passages  it  is  certain  that  the  church  of  17S4  and  1786  was  not 
the  same  as  the  temporary  structure  of  1773  and  of  course  it  cannot  be  the 
same  as  the  present  stone  church  which  was  not  begun  until  1793.  There 
must  therefore  have  been  a  church  erected  sometime  ]M-evious  to  1784  of 
which  the  records  do  not  make  satisfactory  statement.  Lack  of  direct  evi- 
dence makes  it  very  difficult  to  speak  definitely  regarding  the  nature  or 
location  of  this  second  church.  ;\Iany  indications  however  point  to  its  being 
located  upon  the  site  of  the  present  building  and  that  the  position  of  the 
altar  was  identical  with  that  of  the  present  altar.  If  we  may  assume,  as 
many  things  indicate,  that  Serra".'.  room  was  located  at  or  near  the  spot  now 
marked  by  tradition  as  his  death  chamber,  we  have  some  basis  by  which 
to  guide  us  in  locating  this  church.  Laperouse  in  1786  says  the  mission- 
aries' house  at  that  time  was  in  front  of  the  church,  and  Palou  furnished  the 
information  that  the  distance  Serra  walked  from  his  cell  to  the  altar  was 
"more  than  one  hundred  varas."*"  The  location  of  the  present  church  satisfies 
very  well  both  of  these  conditions.  Furthermore  the  absence  of  any  record 
of  the  removal  of  bodies  of  Fathers  Crespi  and  Serra.  who  were  known  to 
be  buried  in  the  older  church,  tends  to  confirm  the  belief  that  such  was  not 
necessary  because  of  the  fact  that  the  new  structure  was  erected  upon  ground 
already  made  holy  not  only  by  the  ministration  of  these  men  but  also  as  the 
resting  place  of  their  remains,  and  that  the  altar  of  the  new  was  upon  the  site 
of  the  altar  of  the  old  church.    Upon  this  point  Father  J.  .Adam  says : 

"Before  concluding,  it  may  be  proper  to  answer  the  question  a.s  to  what  became  of 
that  church  of  stone,  of  which  Fr,  Junipero  spoke  when,  just  before  dying,  he  requested 
Fr.  Palou  to  lay  his  body  close  by  that  of  Fr.  Crespi,  remarking :  'When  they  build 
the  church  of  stone,  let  them  throw  me  where  they  like.'  Can  we  for  a  moment  suspect 
tliat  liis  religious  friends  had  so  liltk-  respect  for  his  memory  as  to  let  him  be  buried 
outside  of  the  consecrated  ground  ?  By  no  means.  Why,  then,  is  no  notice  taken  of 
the  removal  of  the  remains  of  Fr.  Crespi  and  Fr.  Junipero  from  the  old  church  to  the 
new  one?  It  is  the  general  opinion  of  the  old  residents  of  Monterey  that  the  new 
stone  church,  alluded  to  by  Father  Junipero.  was  built  on  the  same  spot  where  the  old 
edifice  stood,  and  according  to  this  supposition  the  graves  of  the  two  first  missionaries 
remained  undisturbed  and  enclosed  within  the  sanctuary  of  the  new  church,  on  the 
gospel  side,  as  they  were  in  the  temporary  building."'' 


'•'Serra's  (juarters  are  described  as  ".su  ({uartitu  6  celda  (ilie  tenia  de  adoves."     Palou,    I'uio,   270. 
I'or  otlier  references  see  Historical  Narrative,  atitc.  21-22. 
*'^Two  hundred  seventy-eight  feet. 
*'.*\(!ams  translation  of  Palou,  Life  of  Serra,  149. 


47 


Front  Eleyation  of  Church  -    San  Carlos Borromec 

Br  Frances  Hand  Smilh 


Plate  14. 


- 

u 

/ 

\ 

s. 

=. 

Rear  Elevatiun  of  Church    -     San  Car [05  Borromeo 

br  Frances  Hand  Smith 

Scof9         ^ 

. -J' 

Plate  15. 


48 


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o 


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or 
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o     O 

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LO 

X. 


<[H 


50 


MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  51 

Using;  the  Sykcs  sketch  of  1794  as  a  basis  for  furtlicr  deduction  we  must 
conckide  that  at  least  durin.s;  the  construction  of  the  stone  church,  services 
were  held  clsewiicre  than  upon  the  site  just  considered  as  that  of  the  ado1)e 
churcli.  It  is  however  extremely  probable  that  at  that  time  a  room  of  some 
existing-  building  may  have  served  this  jjurixise  as  had  been  done  during  the 
earlier  years.  \'ancouver  in  1794  sjieaks  of  the  stone  church  a'^  intlie  process 
of  construction  but  makes  no  mention  of  the  place  of  worship  used  at  that 
time.  The  cross  shown  upon  the  building  to  the  left  in  the  Sykes  sketch 
would  seem  to  indicate  that  for  the  time  being  it  was  used  as  the 
church  (plate  2). 

The  Stone  Churcli.  Since  the  mission  was  primarily  a  religions  institution 
it  is  customary  to  think  of  the  church  as  the  chief  if  not  the  only  building 
connected  with  the  establishment.  Because  also  of  the  fact  that  at  many  mis- 
sion sites  the  church  alone  now  stands  amidst  the  falling  ruins  of  outbuild- 
ings it  has  to  many  minds  come  to  be  the  belief  that  the  church  or  chapel 
was  the  mission.  This  is  untrue  to  fact.  The  church  was  the  center  of  the 
religious  life  and  around  this  the  whole  of  the  mission  activities  revolved 
but  it  did  not  alone  constitute  the  mission,  for  in  the  days  of  the  Spanish 
padres  church,  school,  living  quarters,  workshops,  granaries,  fields  and 
flocks  each  occupied  an  essential  i^art  in  the  make  up  of  a  typical  California 
mission.  Chief  among  these  buildings  was  naturally  the  mission  chapel  or 
church. 

As  has  been  noted  in  a  preceding  paragraph  the  present  church  is  the 
third  to  be  built  at  Carmel.  It  measures  one  hundred  sixty-seven  feet  four 
inches  in  total  length  and  varies  in  width  from  fifty  feet  four  inches  at  the 
north  end  to  sixty-two  feet  at  th.c  sanctuary  end,  the  difference  in  width 
being  due  to  the  baptistry  and  the  sacristy  respectively.  The  church  proper 
is  thirt3-nine  feet  wide.  The  main  walls  are  approximately  five  feet  in 
thickness.     It  is  constructed  of  sandstone,  obtained  near  at  hand. 

As  previously  stated  the  present  appearance  of  the  church  dates  from  1S84 
when  an  effort  was  made  under  Father  Casanova  to  restore  it  so  that 
religious  services  could  be  resumed.  A  radical  modification  was  made  at 
this  time,  due  to  an  attempt  to  give  the  roof  a  steeper  incline,  since  shingles 
were  to  be  substituted  for  roofing  tiles.  To  accomplish  this  the  peak  of  the 
roof  was  raised  some  twelve  feet,  while  on  the  other  hand  the  eaves  over  the 
chapel  were  lowered.  The  result  of  all  this  is  to  give  the  roof  a  prominence 
never  dreamed  of  by  the  original  builders. 

The  accompanying  elevations  show  the  roof  lines  and  walls  as  they  stood 
before  these  changes  were  made,  and  when  the  church  had  the  appearance  of 
greater  length  and  dignity.  In  this  construction  was  a  fitness  of  proportion 
characteristic  of  Spanish  architecture.  By  the  use  of  photographs  and  traces 
left  upon  the  building  itself  many  of  these  points  have  been  determined  with  a 
very  marked  degree  of  certainty.    Through  these  various  means  the  original 


^2  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

height  of  the  roof  has  been  fixed  at  thirty-seven  feet  at  its  peak,  and  twenty-six 
feet  at  the  eaves. 

When  built  at  these  (Hniensions  the  main  tower  stood  twenty-six  feet 
above  the  peak  of  the  roof  and  the  cross  even  higher,  while  the  smaller 
tower  exceeded  the  height  of  the  roof  by  nine  feet.  Six  bells  hung  in  these 
towers  as  late  as  1852. ■"*  The  larger  tower  is  reached  by  an  outside  stairway, 
and  is  capjied  with  a  hollow  dome  of  stone  masonrv,  to  which  an  entrance 
could  be  had  from  the  northwest  side  (plate  9).  There  was  originally  an 
exterior  entrance  into  the  balcony  through  the  larger  belfry  tower,  the  ceiled 
passage  way  being  still  noticeable. 

Interior  of  the  Church.  The  interior  of  the  church  of  San  Carlos  Bor- 
romeo  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  all  the  missions  of  California.  The 
main  chapel  is  twenty-eight  feet  eight  and  one-half  inches  in  width  and 
measures  one  hundred  twenty-five  feet  four  inches  from  the  front  wall  to 
the  first  step  approaching  the  sanctuary,  from  this  point  to  the  rear  wall  there 
is  an  additional  twenty-five  feet  ten  and  one-half  inches.  This  area  is  sep- 
arated from  the  remainder  of  the  church  by  a  low  railing  as  well  as  being 
elevated  several  inches  above  the  floor  level. 

Subdued  light  is  permitted  to  penetrate  the  thick  walls  through  compara- 
tively narrow  windows,  three  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  and  four  on  the 
right.  A  most  interesting  star  window  over  the  front  entrance  furnishes 
additional  light  to  the  church  through  the  balcony. 

The  beauty  of  the  nave  was  enhanced  by  an  arched  ceiling,  the  massive  tile 
roof  being  supported  by  arches  constructed  in  a  most  skillful  manner.  This 
is  shown  by  photographs  taken  during  the  time  the  mission  was  in  ruins. 
Of  particular  value  upon  this  point  is  the  photograph  of  the  interior  published 
by  W.  Clarence  Brown  (plate  19).  This  photograph  is  remarkable 
because  it  includes  two  of  the  three  stone  arches  before  their  destruction, 
and  it  is  particularly  valuable  in  that  it  represents  the  best  and  most  intricate 
construction  in  the  church.  Only  at  Carmel  were  stone  arches  extensively 
employed.  As  seen  in  the  photograph  the  spring  of  the  arch  began  on  a  line 
corresi)onding  to  the  base  of  the  windows,  the  curve  being  gradually  met 
in  the  massive  walls  and  stone  pilasters  (plates  19,  20,  21).  From  the  line 
of  the  richly  ornamented  cornice  the  arch  was  built  strictly  for  utility  and  it 
was  the  contact  with  the  stone  pilasters,  the  increased  proportion  of  the 
upper  wall,  and  the  buttress  against  the  same  scctiim  (plate  i,V)  which  gave 
the  line  of  thrust  its  resistance.  In  plate  20  the  curve  is  drawn  with 
the  original  contour  showing  the  slight  arch  of  the  three  sections.  This  con- 
struction has  been  referred  to  as  a  nave  roof  of  vaidtcd  and  ancient  con- 

"See  note  36,  page  34.  Two  of  tliese  were  added  in  1820,  see  note  24,  page  31.  There  were  in 
all  twenty-four  bells  located  around  the  mission  court,  "el  nuniero  de  las  canipanas  colocadas  en 
distintos  puntos  del  cerco  de  esa  mision,  ascendia  a  veintc  y  cualro."  \';dU'jo,  Histaria  de  Cali- 
fornia,  I.  67-8. 


Cross-  section  of  Church     —     Son  Carlos  Borromeo 

3t  Frances  J^and  Smith 
Note-  This  Ctois-iect'oi/uas  tfrow/i  Jea  /a 

upon  the  Ciibumfjt'icrr  that  fhz  cross-bt,o/ni  1 3  I S 

wv.ra  a  part  of  the  original  structure. 


Pi.ATi-:    18. 


TlatK    19.      Ruined   lulcnor   of   Lhui.ii. 
Brow  n,  photo. 


53 


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Entrance     fo    Church  —    5an     Carlos  dorromeo. 
Ccirmel  ~  Caljforn/'o   - 


Plate  24. 


5(i 


MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  57 

struction.''"  So  unusual  is  the  construction  tliat  it  is  (juite  possible  the 
principle  of  the  catenary  curve  may  have  been  used  in  these  arches. 

In  addition  to  the  three  stone  arches  supplemental  wooden  arches  also 
helped  to  sustain  the  roof.  Caps,  which  are  still  a  part  of  the  interior  stone 
cornice,  mark,  it  is  said,  the  places  upon  which  these  wooden  arches  rested. 
One  stone  arch  has  remained  and  is  quite  as  perfect  as  the  day  it  was 
constructed.  Although  there  is  but  little  spring,  it  supports  the  spacious  bal- 
cony.   In  the  photographs  it  appears  to  be  spanning  the  main  entrance. 

Upon  entering  the  great  doorway  (plate  24),  one  may  turn  to  the  right  and 
find  a  steep  and  narrow  stairway.  Twenty  irregular  sandstone  steps,  meas- 
uring about  two  feet  six  inches  in  length,  one  foot  two  inches  in  width,  and 
with  a  nine  inch  rise,  make  two  complete  turns  around  a  column  of  stone  nine 
inches  in  diameter.  These  steps,  worn  by  the  tramp  of  Indian,  priest  and 
tourist,  lead  to  the  balcony,  which  is  lighted  by  the  famous  star  window. 
(Plate  23.) 

The  baptistry  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  memento  of  workmen  skilled 
in  stone-cutting.  For  it  should  be  stated  that  the  numerous  carvings  in  the 
soft  sandstone  used  throughout  the  great  walls  of  the  church,  form  one  of 
its  most  interesting  features,  the  granite  foundations  upon  which  the  edifice 
is  built  having  provided  resistance  against  earthquake  and  storm.  Four 
columns  support  a  Gothic  ceiling,  the  ribs  of  which  are  carefully  propor- 
tioned and  are  constructed  of  short  lengths  of  sandstone.  The  floor  of  the 
baptistry  is  paved  with  tiles.  The  entrance  is  an  arched  doorway  of  stone 
(plate  25).  A. framework  of  wood  fitted  within  the  stone  arch  held  perpen- 
dicular rods  which  formed  an  open  screen.^" 

The  chapel  located  at  the  left  adjoining  the  baptistry  is  reached  by  the 
most  elaborate  doorv^'ay  in  the  church  (plate  26).  Although  the  room  meas- 
ures twenty-eight  feet  by  fourteen  feet  in  size  it  is  lighted  by  one  small 
window  whose  outer  curves  are  simple  and  effective.  These  outer  lines 
appear  to  have  represented  a  halo  and  the  window  probably  held  a  small 
statue  (plate  28).  Upon  the  wall  of  this  chapel  is  a  colored  decoration  includ- 
ing a  prayer  in  Spanish.  This  chapel  may  also  be  entered  by  means  of  an 
outside  door.^^ 

As  one  approaches  further  toward  the  altar  another  door  is  found  leading 
to  the  left  into  the  mission  court.  This  is  also  shown  in  many  of  the  photo- 
graphs giving  an  exterior  view  of  the  church.  It  will  be  noticed  that  in 
the  photographs  by  Johnson  and  others  taken  before  1884  that  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  arched  top,  the  doorway  is  without  ornamentation.  During 
the  rebuilding  the  arched  top  was  made  square  and  it  is  said  that  the  sand- 
stone carvings  from  the  doorway  of  the  priest's  quarters,  then  in  ruin,  were 


^■'Benton,  The  California  Mission  and  its  influence  upon  PaciHe  Coast  Architecture,  in  West 
Coast  Magazine,  Vol.  IX,  May,  19II,  No.  2.  See  also  Judson,  "The  Architecture  of  the  Missions,"  in 
Annual  Publication  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Southern  California.  VII  (1907-08),   116. 

^"Unfortunately  the  original  baptismal  font  was  badly  damaged  by  vandals.  Father  Sorcnline  to 
Bishop  Amat,  March  12,  1856.  Ante,  note  42.  It  was  later  taken  to  Santa  Cruz  but  subsequently 
returned    to    San    Carlos. 

^'Paintings  in  this  room  were  seen  as  late  as  1837.  Ante,  note  .^3.  This  has  been  referred  to  as 
the  chapel  of  the  Crucifixion.  San  Francisco  Call  Aug.  29,  1.SS4,  and  may  have  been  the  Chapel  of 
the    Pasion  del    Senor,   built    in    1818.     Ante,    note   li. 


50  ARCIIITFXTURAL    HISTORY 

transferred  and  inserted  withm  this  doorway  of  the  church  ("plates  30 
and  31). 

The  altar  of  the  church  is  approached  by  steps  of  excellent  proportion 
which  extend  the  width  of  the  building,  while  a  spacious  arch  in  the  rear  wall 
gives  added  dignity.  A  plaque  found  in  the  debris  of  the  altar  (plate  32) 
was  presented  to  !Mrs.  Leland  Stanford  by  Father  Casanova  and  is  now 
in  the  collection  of  mission  relics  in  the  museum  of  Stanford  University. 
This  is  outlined  in  gold  paper  and  a  circle  of  red  pigment,  probably  ochre. 
The  wood  carving  shown  in  plate  33  is  a  part  of  the  same  collection.  To  the 
right  within  the  railing  is  the  doorway  to  the  sacristy  (plate  34).  The  irreg- 
ular shape  of  certain  walls  of  the  sacristy  makes  it  quite  probable  that  this 
part  belonged  to  a  group  of  buildings  erected  previous  to  the  building  of  the 
stone  church.  It  may  have  been  the  one  shown  in  the  sketch  by  Sykes 
in  1794. 

In  the  sacristy  is  to  be  seen  one  of  the  well  built  stairways  of  the  mission. 
This  stairway  is  the  approach  to  the  pulpit,  the  floor  of  which  is  a  solid 
piece  of  sandstone  carving.  The  door  of  the  pulpit  is  hand  carved  and  is 
the  same  in  design  as  that  in  the  main  doorway  at  San  Fernando.  It  is 
probable  that  the  designer  at  San  Carlos  worked  also  at  San  Fernando.  The 
lavabo  in  the  sacristy  ranks  as  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  stone  carving  in 
the  mission  (plate  35). 

The  Mission  Qiiadraui^lc.  The  records  do  not  specif\-  when  the  buildings 
composing  the  (|uadrangle  were  erected  except  that  the  report  of  181 5  says 
that  the  court  was  entirely  enclosed  by  the  construction  of  fifty  varas  of  build- 
ings during  the  preceding  year."'-  It  is  probable  that  with  the  building  of 
the  stone  church  the  center  of  mission  life  was  shifted  from  the  early  plaza 
shown  by  Svkes  to  the  area  now  ^^een  to  have  been  the  mission  enclosure. 

The  exterior  limits  of  this  quadrangle  as  shown  in  the  ground  plan  here- 
with produced  (  plate  43  )  are  based  \\\ion  actual  survey  of  the  extant  ruiiis 
supplemented  by  the  plat  and  field  notes  of  the  United  States  engineer  who 
made  the  survev  when  the  lands  were  patented  to  the  church.  This  survey 
was  made  by  J.  E.  Terrell  in  December,  1858,  and  may  be  considered  as  rep- 
resenting the  outline  of  the  buildings  and  ruins  as  they  stood  at  that  date. 
Unfortunately  it  is  not  possible  to  identify  accurately  all  of  the  corners  in 
reference  to  buildings  existing  at  present.  It  may  be  probable  that  the 
mission  was  then  in  such  a  state  of  dilapidation  that  it  was  imjiossible  for 
the  surveyor  to  determine  the  original  purj^ise  and  relationship  of  the  exist- 
ing ruins,  it  is,  therefore,  to  be  expected  that  iirescnt  ruins  may  not  in  all 
cases  be  capable  of  identification  upon  the  surveyor's  plat  and  that  in  places 
the  survey  may  not  properly  represent  the  external  lines  of  the  court.  The 
most  noticeable  feature  to  be  seen  in  studying  this  plat  is  tliat  the  court  does 
not  constitute  a  true  rectangle,  but  was  probablv  linilt  lo  ccinform  t<i  ground 
levels. 


'^■Anlc,  note  22.     Sec  plate  44  fur  rcMij.-i  tiir.il  lucatiuii  of  these  builJings. 


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MISSION    SAN    CARLOS  65 

Adjoining"  the  church  upon  its  frnnt  and  eastern  corner  stood  the  building's 
which  began,  or  rather,  continued  the  enclosure.  A  recent  survey  confirms 
the  United  States  plat  when  it  indicates  that  they  did  not  join  the  front  of 
the  church  at  right  angles  but  at  an  angle  of  eighty-seven  and  one-half  de- 
grees/'^ That  these  buildings  joinerl  upon  the  front  of  the  church  there  can 
be  no  question,  although  at  present  there  are  no  adobe  remains  within  approx- 
imately forty  feet  of  the  church,  this  space  having  been  used  for  many  years 
as  a  driveway. 

The  evidence  supporting  the  claim  that  the  ruins  connected  with  the  church 
is  as  follows:  In  the  first  place,  it  is  stated  in  the  mission  report  of  1815 
that  the  quadrangle  was  enclosed  and  various  descriptions  after  that  date 
mention  definitely  this  enclosure;  second,  photographs  by  Muybridge  and 
Johnson  show  very  plainly  a  wall  extending  northward  from  the  church 
for  a  distance  not  less  than  twenty-five  feet,  while  numerous  other  photo- 
graphs taken  before  the  restoration  of  the  church  show  markings  upon  the 
facade  of  the  church  such  as  would  be  made  only  by  adjoining  buildings, 
which  had  but  recently  fallen  away  or  had  been  removed;"'^  and  third. 
the  remaining  adobe  ruins  and  stone  foundations  indicate  a  continuation  of 
the  buildings  which,  if  extended,  would  join  the  church  in  such  manner  as 
to  explain  the  markings  in  the  photographs  referred  to. 

From  the  data  at  hand  the  first  section  has  been  restored.  The  side  walls 
are  formed  by  continuing  existing  ruined  walls.  The  end  is  determined 
from  certain  foundation  stones  to  be  found  extending  eastward  from  the 
corner  of  the  church.  This  portion  was  probably  used  by  the  mission  priests 
as  living  quarters,  as  indicated  in  the  accounts  of  Laperouse  in  1786  and 
Du  Petit-Thouars  in  1837,  as  well  as  by  present  day  tradition.  On  the  other 
hand,  an  examination  of  the  Sykes  sketch  made  at  the  time  of  A'ancouver's 
visit  shows  upon  the  right  and  in  front  of  the  stone  church,  then  being  con- 
structed, a  long  building  surmounted  by  a  cross,  thus  indicating  that  it  may 
then  have  been  the  temporary  mission  church. 

The  buildings  nearer  the  northern  corner  of  the  court  are  fortunatelv  in  a 
better  state  of  preservation.  Existing  adobe  ruins  laid  hare  by  excavations 
under  Father  R.  M.  Mestres  show  plainly  the  postion  and  thickness  of  these 
walls  (plates  36-40).  That  this  portion  of  the  building  at  least  was  more 
than  one  story  in  height  is  indicated  by  a  jNIuybridge  photograph  (plate  7). 
In  it  are  to  be  seen  the  elevation  of  the  wall  above  the  top  of  the  door  with 
projecting  floor  beams  and  windows  for  the  upper  floor.  It  is  probable  that 
the  upper  story  was  a  loft  which  covered  the  whole  of  this  range  of 
buildings. 

The  ground  plans  for  the  buildings  along  the  northeastern  side  of  the 
court  were  worked  out  from  existing  ruins,  photographic  evidence,  and  from, 
other  data  gathered  several  years  ago.     In  the  corner  is  one  large  room.^^ 


^'See  note  37. 

-'"'See  any  front  view   of  church  about   1S80  or  before. 

"The  author  saw  this  as  one  large  room  in   1908  before  the  excavation  made  for   road  work  had 
removed  a  portion   of  the   above   ruins. 


66  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

Adjoining  this  room  to  the  east  are  the  adobe  remains  of  three  smaller  ones. 
Tliese  rooms  are  about  sixteen  feet  wide  inside  measurement,  and  measure 
respectively  twenty-nine,  sixteen  and  eight  feet  in  length. 

These  three  rooms  are  six  feet  narrower  than  the  corner  room  previously 
described,  the  extra  space  being  occupied  by  a  portico  of  that  width  as 
shown  in  the  sketch  of  Wm.  Smythe  (plate  3).  An  excellent  photograph 
by  Fiske  clearly  shows  that  of  these  three  rooms  the  larger  one  alone  had  a 
door  or  other  exterior  opening  (plate  41).  It  may  be  of  interest  to  note 
that  this  door  has  a  striking  similarity  to  the  one  removed  from  the  adobe 
ruins  during  the  restoration  of  1884.  and  placed  at  the  side  of  the  stone 
church.^'"  The  other  openings  from  these  rooms  into  the  court  are  of  neces- 
sity largely  conjectural,  as  the  ruined  walls  fail  to  give  satisfactory  evidence 
as  to  their  existence  and  location. 

In  the  restoration  of  the  building  adjoining  those  just  described  there  is 
now  but  little  to  guide  the  investigator,  for  the  ruined  adobe  walls  which  at 
one  time  continued  the  enclosure  have  now  disappeared.  However,  know- 
ing from  the  documents  that  the  court  here  was  enclosed  by  buildings,  and 
acting  upon  data  obtained  in  1908,  before  these  walls  had  been  entirely 
obliterated  to  satisfy  a  temporary  demand  for  road  material,  this  portion 
has  been  reconstructed.  Acting  upon  this  data  these  buildings  have  been 
indicated  as  of  the  same  width  as  the  room  at  the  northeast  corner.  That 
in  their  general  form  and  size  these  buildings  have  been  correctly  outlined 
there  seems  to  be  but  little  ground  for  doubt.''" 

The  United  States  survey  plat  shows  an  extension  of  nine  feet  along  a  por- 
tion (if  the  northeast  side  of  the  court.  Just  what  these  lines  represent  is 
not  determined  in  a  fully  satisfactory  manner.  It  is  probable,  however,  that 
they  represent  a  projection  such  as  a  covered  porch,  as  is  suggested  by  the 
sketch  of  Wm.  Smythe.  Adjoining  the  corner  of  the  court  upon  the  east 
is  a  small  rectangular  space  set  ofi  in  such  a  manner  as  to  indicate  a  building 
about  twenty-six  by  nineteen  feet  in  size.  This  was  probably  built  in  this 
manner  to  serve  as  a  buttress  to  support  the  walls  of  the  range  of  buildings 
just  described,  or  it  may  have  been  a  supplemental  building  added  later. 

From  these  buildings  the  court  turned  to  the  southwest  at  an  angle  of 
ninety  and  one-half  degrees.  The  inner  wall  of  this  portion  is  clearly  shown 
by  existing  ruins  which  extend  for  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  fifty 
feet.''"  The  outer  wall  of  this  jjortion  of  tlie  quadrangle  has  disap])eare(i.  but 
that  an  adobe  wall  did  exist  is  indicated  by  notations  upon  the  plat  of  the 

"^"A  close  examination  of  the  I'iskc  photograph  referred  to  shows  very  clearly  the  ciiaractcrlstics 
of  this  doorway.  ,\ccording  to  tlic  statement  of  Father  K.  M.  Mestres,  this  door  of  the  church  had 
been  obtained  from  one  of  the  adobe  ruins.     Ante,  57. 

''■The  evidence  favoring  this  conclusion  is  as  follows:  First,  the  line  of  the  United  States  survey 
indicates  that  the  buildings  here  were  wider  than  those  j)reviously  described,  rather  than  narrower. 
Second,  notwithstanding  the  many  points  of  conflict  between  the  sketcli  of  San  Carlos  in  1823 
(plate  3),  and  tiie  archeological  evidence  now  at  hand,  the  former  does  support  strongly  the 
idea  of  continuous  and  more  or  less  uniform  buildings.  This  also  is  borne  out  in  the  restoration 
of  Oriana  Day  (plate  8),  which,  however,  witlmnt  furtlicr  evidence,  floes  not  stand  as  an  independent 
source.  Third,  the  Fiske  photograph  of  18S0  (plate  41).  shows  walls  which  liave  now  disappeared. 
Unfortunately,  however,  from  the  picture  it  is  impossible  to  determine  definitely  the  position  of  these 
walls  with  reference  to  their  distance  from  the  court. 

•'•"The   first   30   feet   have  disaiipeared,  this  being  used   as  a  roadway. 


Plativ  36.      Miiinnl   cf  Ruins.  January,   ig20. 
Coy,  photo. 


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70 


4 


MISSION    SAX    CARLOS  "I 

United  States  surveyor.  Its  foundations  therefore  will  probably  be  revealed 
by  future  excavations.  The  windows  and  doors  leading  into  the  court  have 
been  restored  in  the  ground  plan  approximately  as  shown  in  these  ruins. 

At  the  end  of  the  one  hundred  fifty  feet  just  described  the  ruined 
adobe  wall  terminates  in  a  \vcll-dcfinc(I  curncr,  thus  indicating  the  end  of  a 
building.  Acting  upon  the  following  statement  by  Ruschenbergcr  that 
there  was  an  entrance  to  the  court  on  this  side,  a  wagon  entrance  has  been 
indicated  in  the  ground  plan  at  this  point.     I  le  says  :''" 

"Tlie  niission  building  is,  ])crlia[)S.  a  lunidred  yards  square,  one  story  liiiiii,  and 
roofed  witli  tiles.  We  rode  through  the  gate,  which  was  just  ready  to  fall  from  its 
hinges,  into  the  great  central  court,  round  which  it  is  built,  where  we  found  eight  or 
ten  hulians  engaged  in  repairing  the  roof." 

In  reference  to  the  remainder  of  the  f|uadrangle  there  is  little  evidence  now 
to  be  found.  It  is  probable  that  this  portion  of  the  cjuadrangle  was  constructed 
in  a  less  substantial  manner  than  the  other  parts.  That  the  exterior  walls 
were  built  of  adobe  is  indicated  upon  the  surveyor's  plat,*'"  but  time  has 
obliterated  all  surface  traces  of  them  as  well  as  of  the  inner  walls.  It  is  ex- 
tremely probable  that  excavations  now  in  progress  will  show  the  exact  lo- 
cation of  all  these  walls. 

That  there  were  buildings  enclosing  the  whole  area  of  the  mission  court, 
however,  is  well  established  from  documentary  sources,  and  subsoil  excava- 
tions have  brought  to  light  much  corroborative  data.  In  the  annual  report 
for  the  year  1815  it  is  stated  that  during  the  year  there  had  been  erected 
several  building-s  necessary  to  enclose  the  court."'-  Ruschenbergcr  in 
1836  describes  the  mission  as  built  around  a  great  central  court.  Du  Petit- 
Thouars,  who  visited  the  mission  in  1837,  states  in  his  description  that  the 
court  was  enclosed  on  all  four  sides  by  buildings."-  In  addition  to  these 
statements  there  is  the  sketch  of  the  rear  of  the  mission  in  1839  reproduced 
by  Laplace,"^  which  shows  the  greater  portion  to  have  been  enclosed  by 
buildings,  although  it  is  impossible  to  determine  much  regarding  their  form 
or  the  material  of  which  they  were  constructed.  It  is  not  improbable  that 
buildings  of  light  adobe  had  been  erected  along  these  two  sides  of  the  court 
either  for  workshops  or  neophytes'  dwellings.  All  the  walls  have  now  dis- 
appeared Ijut  at  the  time  of  the  survey  of  1858  the  outer  and  stronger  wall 
of  the  adobe  still  remained,  although  even  then  in  a  ruined  fonn. 

As  the  side  of  the  court  approaches  the  church  it  is  noted  that  the  outer 
wall  does  not  connect  with  the  rear  wall  of  the  stone  church,  but  lies  some 
fifteen  or  more  feet  to  the  rear.  Furthermore  the  surveyor's  plat  seems  to 
show  a  projection  of  the  church  into  the  rear.  When  comparison  is  made 
with  the  sketch  reproduced  Ijy  Laplace  these,  irregularities  are  explained,"'' 

■'"Ruschenberger,    Xarratiz'c,    507. 

""Notations  on  the  plat  definitely  state  that  the  wall  on  the  southeast  side  was  an  adobe.  The 
other  is  merely  described  as  an  "ok!  wall." 

^^Archiz'O   Misioncs,  Papcles   Originalcs,    I,   372. 
"Du   Petit-Thouars,    Voyage,  II,   116. 
"'Laplace,  Campagne,  VI,  294  (plate  4). 
»'Plate  4. 


7^ 


ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 


for  it  is  seen  in  the  drawing  tliat  unless  tlie  laws  of  perspective  were  entirely 
disregarded  the  artist  did  not  intend  to  show  the  rear  wall  of  the  court  as 
joining  directly  upon  the  corner  of  the  church,  but  rather  several  feet  to  the 
rear.  The  sketch  then  shows  a  lean-to  building  adjoining  the  rear  of  the 
church.  There  was  probabl}'  a  door  at  the  corner  of  the  court  between  the 
rear  wall  and  the  churcli  through  which  access  was  had  to  this  outbuild- 
ing.*'^ From  the  representation  of  a  corral  around  this  structure  it  seems 
that  it  may  have  served  in  1839  at  least  as  a  shelter  for  the  milch  cows. 

That  there  were  numerous  other  buildings  serving  the  purpose  of  the 
mission  outside  of  the  enclosure  just  described  is  indicated  by  the  various 
reports  and  sketches  which  have  come  down  from  the  earlier  period.  The 
Smythe  sketch  of  1823  shows  several  buildings  located  outside,  in  addition  to 
the  rude  huts  of  the  Indians.  Excavations  among  the  ruins  surrounding  the 
mission  enclosure  may  disclose  the  location  and  form  of  many  of  these  build- 
ings, but  at  present  there  is  but  little  to  indicate  their  number  or  location. 
It  has  been  thought  best,  therefore,  to  include  in  this  study  only  those  build- 
ings which  were  a  part  of,  or  definitely  attached  to,  the  mission  court.''" 

The  Mission  Bells.  No  description  of  San  Carlos  would  be  complete 
without  reference  to  its  bells,  for  the  bells  played  an  important  part  in  the 
life  of  every  Spanish  mission.  They  made  know-n  the  hour  of  rising  and 
the  time  of  morning  worship.  At  their  sound  the  neophytes  went  forth 
to  toil  and  were  summoned  to  food  and  rest.  The  bells  pealed  forth  glad 
welcome  to  arriving  friends  and  tolled  their  dolorous  lamentation  at  the 
death  of  members  of  the  mission  family. 

Around  the  court  at  San  Carlos  hung  some  twenty-four  bells  of  various 
sizes.  At  least  six  of  these  hung  in  the  two  towers  of  the  church.  Two  of 
the  larger  bells  were  added  during  the  year  1820.  Unfortunately  the  only 
bell  which  has  remained  continuously  at  the  mission  has  been  recast  during 
recent  years,  and  but  little  is  known  regarding  the  history  or  present  location 
of  the  other  original  bells.  It  is  not  improbable,  however,  that  further 
research  w'ill  disclose  many  facts  still  unknown  and  may  make  possible  the 
identification  of  some  of  the  liells  which  have  drifted  away  from  their  proper 
surroundings.''" 

Tlie  Burial  Ground.  On  the  side  of  the  chui-ch  opposite  the  court  lies  the 
cemetery.  All  agree  as  to  its  position,  but  there  is  as  yet  no  certainty 
as  to  its  exact  extent.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  a  well  defined  wall  di- 
vided the  area  described  by  various  authorities  as  a  cemetery  into  two  dis- 
tinct parts.""  The  wider  area  is  shown  upon  the  plat  of  the  survey  of 
1X58    and    would    allow    for    the    burial    ground    space    approximately    one 


•"Visctier  represents  the  w.ills  of  the  buildings  as  being  very  massively  built. 
*"For  conjectural  location  of  some  of  these  buildings,  see  plate  44. 

'"For  references  regarding  the  bells,  see  notes  24,  36  and  48.      .\  most  valuable  study  of  mission 
campanology  is  now  being  made  by  Mrs.  Alice  Ilarriman  of  I,os  Angeles. 

"■This  wall  is  clearly  shown  in  the  photographs  reproduced  herewith.     (Plates  S,  9  and  10.) 


GROUND    PLAfN    OF 

Mission  SANCmiosBoj^Homo 

5H0WI»Jfi  CDNJECTVH^i-  FORM  RNDIOCAUOH 

Of  STOCKADE,  OUTBH\LDtH(^S.&t. 

By  FRArtCtsf?  Smith 


Plate  44. 


□ 


73 


74  ARCHITECTURAL    HISTORY 

hundred  sixt}-  in  length  by  shghtly  less  than  sixty  feet  in  average  width. 
The  smaller  space  lies  near  the  church  and  is  about  one  hundred  long  by 
twenty  feet  wide.  That  this  latter  was  the  burial  ground  seems  indicated 
by  the  Smythe  sketch  of  1823.  as  well  as  that  of  Laplace  of  1839.  That  this 
smaller  space  was  inadequate  for  this  purpose  would  appear  very  reasonable, 
but  why  a  substantial  wall  should  divide  the  grounds  is  an  unsolved  question 
unless  the  original  burial  ground  had  Ijeen  enlarged,  the  wall  being 
allowed  to  remain.  Of  the  existence  of  this  wall  there  can  be  no  doubt.  It 
is  very  distinctly  reproduced  in  the  Fiske  photograph  of  the  ruins  of  the 
Mission  Church  (plate  10),  which  shows  the  rear  portion  of  the  wall  still 
standing  up  to  a  level  with  the  eaves  of  the  sacristy,  a  height  of  twelve  feet. 
It  is  also  clearly  indicated  in  the  "Alemany  Plat,"  1854.     (Plate  5. ) 

.\ccording  to  tradition,  an  unmarked  grave  is  situated  in  front  of  the 
mission  church  for  the  bandit  Garcia,  a  member  of  the  band  under  the  leader- 
ship of  A'asquez,  who  asked  in  his  deathbed  repentance,  it  is  said,  that  he  be 
buried  where  the  worshipers  of  the  mission  might  ever  tread  upon  his  grave. 
Before  the  great  door  of  the  church  is  another  grave,  that  of  the  weary  and 
worn  little  Costanoan  Indian.  This  honor  was  earned  when,  during  the 
strength  of  her  young  womanhood,  she  helped  to  bear  the  burdens  in  the 
building  of  San  Carlos. 

In  the  shelter  of  the  great  stone  walls  of  the  mission  of  San  Carlos  Bor- 
romeo  itself  is  the  last  resting  place  of  the  priests  and  Indians  who  were  the 
Ijuilders  of  the  mission.  Here,  too,  rest  Serra  and  Crcspi.  who  conceived  the 
plan  of  the  stone  church,  and  Lasuen,  wlio  erected  it.  Thus,  of  the  little  band 
of  four  associates,  in  the  convent  school  of  Majorca  (St^anish,  Mallorca), 
in  the  Balearic  Isles,  Serra.  Palou,  \'erger,  and  Crespi,  who  in  later  life  set 
out  together  on  their  high-souled  missionary  adventure  to  the  New  World, 
and  all  four  of  whom  cooperated  to  the  end  in  the  work  of  building  up  the 
superb  chain  of  California  missions,  it  came  to  pass  that  two  still  sleep  side 
by  side. 

To  the  architectural  beauty  of  the  ruin  at  Carmel,  the  spot  where  Father 
Junipero  lalioreil  and  died,  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  pays  this  trii)ute;'"' 

"His  grave  is  iintler  the  ruins  of  the  beautiful  stone  church  of  his  mission, — the  cluircli 
which  he  saw  only  in  ardent  and  longing  fancy.  It  .was  perhaps  the  most  beautiful, 
though  not  the  grandest  of  the  mission  churches ;  and  its  ruins  have  today  a  charm  far 
exceeding  all  the  others.  The  fine  yellow  tint  of  the  stone,  the  grand  and  unique  contour 
of  the  arches,  the  beautiful  star-shaped  window  in  the  front,  the  simple  yet  efifective 
lines  of  carving  on  pilaster  and  pillar  and  doorway,  the  symmetrical  Moorish  tower  and 
dome,  the  worn  steps  leading  up  to  the  belfry. — all  make  a  picture  whose  beauty,  apart 
from  liallowing  associations,  is  enougli  to  hold  one  s])ell-l)onnd." 


"Jackson,  Helen  Hunt,  Gliml'scs  of  California  and  the  Missions,  43. 


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COMJtCTUI^AL  LOCATION  OFWALLS  '—  CZIl 
ANGLES  L.  INDICflTt  POINTS  Of  0&5£RVA~ 
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SHOWING  EXTANT  RurNSAns  OTHER  DATA 

PREP/tREOflT    THE 

C^LIfOMM  HIS70RIC/1L  SURMVCOfln/SSION 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

l^iuNTED  Works 
Adam,  J.     See  under  Paloii. 

Ijancroft,  H.  H.,  History  of  California.     San  Francisco,  1884-1890. 
liartk-tt,  J.  R.,  Fcrsoiial  intrrati-i'c  of  c  xplorations  and  incidents.  .  .  .  dnring 
the  years  iSf,(>,  'ji,  \^J  and  '5-;.     New  York,  1834. 

Ileechey,  F.  W.,  Narrati^'c  of  a  i'oyai;e  to  the  I'acifie  .  .  .  in  the  \ears  182 f,, 

'26.   '-'7,  '28.     Philadelphia,   1832. 
Benton,  Arthur  ]'>.,  Tlie  California  mission  and  its  influence  npon  Pacific 

Coast  architecture,  in  the  West  Coast  Magazine,  X,   137-160  (May, 

1911). 

Cole,  G.  W.,  iMissions  and  mission  pictures;  a  contribution  ton'ards  an  icon- 
ography of  the  Franciscan  missions  of  California,  in  California  State 
Library,  A'czcs  note.  V  (1910),  390-412. 

Duflot  de  Mofras,  Eugene,  Exploration  du  territoire  de  I'Oregon  des  Cali- 

fornics  .  .  .  pendant  les  amices  1840,   1841,  ct   1842.     Paris,    1844. 
Du  Petit-Thouars,  Abel,  I'oyage  autour  du  monde  sur  la  frigate  la  J'einis 

pendant  les  annees,  1836-1839.     Paris,  1840. 
F.ngelhardt.  C.  A.  ( ('/;  religion  Zephyrin).    The  missions  and  niissionaires  of 

California.     San  Francisco,  1908-1916. 
Hittell.  T.  H..  History  of  California.      San  Francisco,  1898. 
Jackson,  Helen  Hinit,  Clinipses  of  California  and  the  missions.    IJoston,  1902. 
Judson,   Wni.   L..   Architecture   of  the   missions,   in    Historical    Society   of 

Southern  California,  .hiuual  Publications,  \ll.  114-118. 
l,aperouse,    lean    Francois   de    Galaup,    I'oyage   de   la   Pcrouse   autour   du 

iMondc.     Paris,  1798. 
Laplace.   [Cyrille  Pierre  Theodore],  Cainpagnc  de  Circunvurrigation  de  la 

frigate  I'Artcniise  pendant  les  annccs  i8j/,  18^8.  i83q  ct  1840.    Paris, 

1841-1854. 

Palou,  Francisco,  A'oticias  de  la  Nuezxi  California.     San  Francisco,  1874. 
Relacion  historica  de  la  :'ida  \  apostolicas  tereas  del  I'enerable  Padre 

Fray  Junipero  Serra.    Mexico.  1787. 
Francisco  Palou's  life  .  .  .  of  the   Venerable  I'ather  Junipero  Serra. 
Pasadena    ( G.    W.   James),    1913. 

Life  of  J'en.  Padre  Junipero  Serra.  .  .  .  Tr.  by  J 'cry  Rei'.  J.  .Idaiu. 

San  Francisco.   1884. 
Richman,  Irving  B..  California  under  Spain  and  Me.vico.     New  York,  191 1. 
Rusclienberger,  ^^'m.  S.  W.,  .1  foyage  round  the  leorld  .  .  .  in  i8^£.  i8j6 

and  'f8j7.     Philadelphia,   1838. 
T.  H.  S.     The  death  and  burial  of  Father  Junipero  Serra,  in  Hutching"s 

Illustrated  California  Magazine,  IV   (i860),  493-496. 
Vancouver,  George,  A   z'oyagc  of  discovery  .  .   .  in  the  year   Tjgo.   ijgi, 

1792,  179s,  1794,  and  i/QS-     London,  1798. 
Vischer,  Eduard,  Missions  of  upper  California,  i8j2.     San  Francisco,  1872. 


^Manuscript  Material 

(Chiefly  in  the  Bancroft  Collection) 

Bancroft.  H.  H..  Personal  Observations,  1874. 

De  Croix  to  Fages.  November  12.  1770,  in  Arcluvcs  of  California,  Provin- 
cial State  Papers,  I,  69-71. 

Fages  to  Palou,  May  29.  178^,  in  .Archives  of  California.  Provincial  Records, 

HI,  50. 

Infornie  de  San  Carlos.  December  31,    1810.  in  Archive  de  las  Misiones, 

Papeles  Originates,  I,  328. 
Informe  de  San  Carlos,  December  31,    1S15.   in  Archivo  dc  las  Misiones, 

Papeles  Originales,  I,  t,'/2. 

Informe  de  San  Carlos,  December  31.   1818,  in  Archivo  de  las  Illisiones, 

Papeles  Originales.  I,  432. 
Informe  de  San  Carlos,  December  31,   1820,  in  Archivo  de  las  Misiones, 

Papeles  Originales,   I,   328. 
Informe  de  San  Carlos,  December  31,   1822.  in  Archivo  de  las  Misioiia, 

Papeles  Originales,  I,  554-556. 
Lasuen  to  Arrillaga,  June   7,    1794,   in  Archivo   del  Arcobispado   de   Sa)i 

Francisco.  I,  38—39. 
I.asuen  to  Borica,  December  10,   1794,  in  Archivo  de  la  Mision  de  Santa 

Barbara.  Papeles  Miscelancos,  \'I,  219-220. 
Lasuen,  Estado  general  bienal   1793-4,   Mar.    11,    1795,  in  Archivo   de   la 

Mision  de  Santa  Barbara,  Infonnes  y  Correspondencia,  XII,  54-61. 
Lasuen,   Report,    1797-1798,    in  Arcliivo   de   la   Mision    de  Santa  Barbara 

Papeles  Miscelancos.  XII,  65-68. 
Lasuen,  Representacion,  November  12,  1800,  hi  Archivo  de  la  Mision  dc 

Santa  Barbara,  Papeles  Miscclaiieos,  II,  154-240. 
Notas,   March   i,    1795.  in  Archives  of   California,  State   Papers  Missions, 

11,  4-8. 
Payeras,  Report,   Deceml)er  31,   1818,   in  Archivo  de  la   Mision   de  Santa 

Barbara,  In  formes  y  Correspondencia,  XII,  451-455. 

Payeras,  Report,  ^lay  4,  1S19,  Ibid,  98-104. 

Sal,  Estado,  December  31,  1797.  in  Archi-res  of  California,  .State  Papers 
Missions,  II,  120. 

Serra,  Representacion  de  21  Mayo,  1773,  in  .Irchi-i'cs  of  California.  Provin- 
cial State  Papers.  I,  103-137,  also  in  Archivo  de  la  Mision  de  Santa 
Barbara.  I,  83-1 18. 

Serra,  Informe,  1774,  in  Archivo  de  la  Mision  de  Santa  Barbara,  Infonnes 
y  Correspondencia,  I,  146-154. 

Sorcntine  to  Bishop  Amat,  Monterey,  Alarch  12,  1856,  in  the  Deltine  de  la 
Guerra  Collection,  Santa  Barbara. 

Vallejo,  Mariano  C,  Historia  dc  California,  5  volumes. 


78 


INDEX. 


Adam,  Father  J.  quoted,  46. 

Adobe,  used  in  1774,  20;  in  neophytes' 
quarters  ( 1800),  28,  31 ;  Serra's  cell  of, 
45;  church  of,  46.     Sec  Church. 

.Memanv,  Bishop,  J.  S.,  37;  ".Menianv 
plat"  (plate  5),  30,  74. 

.-\mat.  Bishop,  41,  57. 

.\merican  conquest  (1846),  34. 

.\rches,  at  rear  of  altar,  58;  of  stone  sup- 
porting balcony  (plate  22),  55  ;  of  stone 
supporting  roof,  38,  52 ;  of  wood,  57. 

Balcony,  entrance  through  tower,  52; 
stairway  to,  57;  arch  supporting  (plate 
22),  55." 

Bancroft,  cited,  18,  21,  32;  describes  ruins 
(1874),  37. 

Baptistry,  57;  entrance  to  (plate  26),  59; 
window  of  (plates  27,  29),  60,  61  ;  font 
(note  50),  57. 

Barracks  ( 1773),  20,  45. 

Bartlett,  at  mission  (1852),  34. 

Beechey  describes  mission  (1827),  31. 

Bells,  72 ;  rung  at  founding  of  mission, 
17;  two  added  ( 1820),  31  ;  si.x  in  towers 
(1852),  34,  52;  twenty-four  around 
mission   (note  48),  52. 

Benton,  Arthur  B.,  cited,  57. 

Brown,  Clarence,  photograph  bv,  52.  53. 

Buildings,  at  Monterey  (1770'),  17;  at 
Carmel  (1771),  18-19,  45;  those  of 
1773,  20,  45;  of  1774.  20-21,  45;  de- 
scribed by  Laperouse  ( 1786),  22-23  ;  by 
Vancouyer  (1794),  24,  27;  neophytes' 
quarters  (1800),  28-31;  enclose  quad- 
rangle (1815),  31;  chapel  (1818),  31; 
described  by  Ruschenberger  (1836), 
32;  bv  Du  Petit-Thouars  (1837).  33; 
by  Bartlett  (1852),  34;  by  Bancroft 
(1874) ,  37-38.  See  also  Church.  Quad- 
rangle. 

Burial  ground  (note  37),  37;  shown 
(plate  10),  39;  72. 

Buttresses,  52;  shown  (plate  10),  39. 

Canteria,  material  in  cliurch.  24. 

Carmel,  site,  advantages  of,  18,  19;  river, 

Carmelite  friars,  17. 

Casanova,   Father,   restored   church, 
mentioned,  58. 

Catenary  curve  used  in  arches,  57. 

Ceiling  arched,   in   stone   church,  52 
other    churches    built    by    Serra 
Crespi  (note  17),  24. 

Cemetery.     Sec  Burial  ground. 

Chapel,  at  presidio  (1770),  17;  erected  at 
Carmel  (1771),  19;  of  the  Passion,  ad- 
joining church  (1818),  31;  lateral 
chapel  described  (1837),  33;  of  the 
Crucifixion,  57;  entrance  to  (plate  26), 
59;  window  (plate  2S),  60.  See  alsu 
Church. 


51 


m 
and 


79 


Chimneys  not  used,  23. 
Church,'  provisional,  17,  18,  19,  20,  45; 
conjectural  location  (plate  44)  73;  not 
same  as  adobe  churcli,  46;  adobe,  45: 
distinct  from  provisional,  46;  Crespi 
and  Serra  Iniried  in,  46 ;  described  bv 
Laperouse  (1786),  22;  stone  church, 
23.  24;  church  referred  to  by  Serra 
(note  13),  22;  building  of  (  Vancouver ). 
27,  51  ;  dimensions  by  Bancroft  (1874), 
38;  entrance  (plate  24),  56;  ground 
plan  (plate  13),  47;  front  elevation 
(plate  14),  48;  rear  elevation  (plate 
15),  48;  side  elevation  (plates  16,  17), 
49,  50;  cross  section  (plate  18),  53; 
ruined  interior  (Brown,  plate  19),  S3; 
Perkins  (plate  21  ).  54;  side  door  from 
adobe^  ruins  (plates  30,  31),  62,  57-58, 
66;  dimensions  from  photographs,  51- 
52;  as  reconstructed  (1884),  40,  51. 

Court,  completely  enclosed  (1815),  45. 
See'  also  Stockade,  Quadrangle. 

Coy,  photographs  by  (plates  36,  37),  67, 
(plates  38-40)  68;  survey  by  (plate  45), 
opposite  page  75. 

Crespi,  17,  IS,  25,  74;  death  and  burial, 
21-22,  46,  74;  as  church  builder  (note 
17),  24. 

Croix.     See  De  Croix. 

Cross,  erected  at  Monterey  ( 1770).  17;  at 
Carmel  (1771  ),  18;  conj'ectural  location 
(plate  44),  73;  in  center  of  court 
(1837),  33. 

Day,  Oriana,  painting  (plate  8),  36,  66. 

De  Croix,  Viceroy,  18. 

Dome.  52;  shown  in  photograph  (plate 
9),  39. 

Doorways,  main  entrance  to  churcli 
(plate  24),  56;  side  entrance,  57;  illus- 
tration of  (  plates  30,  31 ),  62  ;  to  chapel, 
57.  detail  of  (plate  25),  59;  to  bap- 
tistry, 57.  detail  of  (plate  26),  59;  to 
sacristy,  58,  detail  of  (plate  34),  64; 
pulpit.  58. 

Duflot  de  Mofras.  at  mission  (1841) 

Du  Petit-Thouars.  33-34,  65.  71. 

Echeandia,  degree  of  secularization.  32. 

Enclosure.     See  Stockade,  Quadrangle 

Engelhardt.  cited.  17,  18,  32. 

Figueroa  enforces  secularization,  32. 

Fiske,  38,  66,  74;  photographs  by 
10)..  39,  (plate  41),  69. 

Forests,  18,  19,  20. 

Founding  of  San  Carlos,  17,  20. 

Garcia,  bandit,  74. 

Garden,  20;  Vancouver  dined  in,  27;  wall 
down  (1824),  32;  neglected  (1837),  33- 
deserted   (1852),  37. 

Gate,  to  mission  court  ready  to  fall 
(1836),  32;  mentioned  by  Du  Petit- 
Thouars  (1837),  33. 


to 


34. 


1  plate 


Gentile,  Indians,  20. 

Gothic  ceiling  in  baptistry,  57. 

Granarv  (1771  ),  19,45;  well  filled  (1794), 

n. 

Grinding  flour,  method  of,  27. 
Herder's  cabin   (plate  41),  69. 

Hittell,  cited,  31. 

Indians,  huts  of  thatch  (1773),  20;  vil- 
lage described  by  Laperousc  (1786), 
22-23;  by  Vancouver  (1794),  27;  quar- 
ters of  (1800),  28;  numbers  of,  seven 
hundred  and  forty  (1786),  23;  eight 
hundred  (1794),  27;  '[\\ti  hundred 
(1834),  34;  eight  or  ten  Indians  work- 
ing (1836),  32;  two  or  three  families 
(1837),  33;  not  over  thirty  (1841),  34; 
tenantless  (1852).  34;  life  of.  daily 
routine,  23  ;  food,  23  ;  grinding  meal,  27. 

Inventory  of  property  (1834),  il. 

Irrigation,  possible  in  Carmel  Valley,  18. 

Jackson,  Helen  Hunt,  quoted,  74. 

Ja;ues,  tieo.  Wharton,  cited,  17,  18,  24. 

Johnson,  C.  W.  J.,  photographer,  38.  65; 
photographs  bv,  frontis,  (plates  11, 
12),  40.  _ 

Judson,  W.  L.,  cited,  57. 

Kitchen  (1771  ),  19. 

Laperouse,  45,  65;  visits  mission  (1786), 
22-23;  picture,  33. 

Laplace,  at  mission  ( 1839),  34,  71  ;  sketch 
of  mission   (plate  4),  29. 

Lasuen,  74;  president  of  missions,  22; 
builds  stone  church,  23-24;  cited,  24; 
quoted,  28. 

Lavabo  in  sacristv,  58;  detail  of  (plate 
35),  64. 

Lime  made  of  sea  shells,  27. 

Living  quarters,  45 ;  at  the  presidio 
(1770),  17;  in  1771.  18-19;  in  1837,  ZZ. 

Lower  California  Indians,  18. 

Marines,  help  build  mission,  18. 

Mestres,  Father  R.  M.,  65,  66. 

Mill,  presented  to  mission  (1786),  23. 

Mofras.     Sec  Duflot. 

-Monterey  Bay.  Spanish  occupation  of,  17. 

Mortar,  and  whitewash  on  walls,  31;  of 
adobe,  38;  made  of  shells,  27;  wooden 
wall  plastered  over,  20. 

Mount  Calvary,  31. 

Muchado   (|)late  41  ),  69. 

.Muybridgc,  E.  J.,  photographer.  38,  65; 
photograph  by  (plate  7),  36. 

.Xeophytes.     Sec  Indians. 

Orchard.     See  Garden. 

Organ,  presented  hv  Vancouver.  11:  >till 
in  use  (1837),  34. 

Ovens,  21. 

Palou.  21,  22,  45.  74;  cited.  17.  18.  22, 
24,  46. 

Paintings,  in  clnirch  ( 1786),  22 ;  in  chapel 
(1837),  ZX  57. 

Patent  issued  to  church  (1859),  37. 

Payeras  quoted,  31. 

80 


Perkins,    photographer.    38;    photograph 

bv   (plate  21),  54. 
Pilasters,  52;  detail  of  (plate  20),  54. 
Pines,  45. 

Plaque  (plate  32),  58. 
Portola,   17. 
Presidio,   18.  24. 

Provisional  church,  at  Carmel  ( 1771 ).  18  ; 
in  1773,  20;  conjectural  location  (plate 
44).  li.     See  also  Church. 

Pulpit,  58. 

Punta  de  Pinos,  19. 

Quadrangle,  58,  65-66,  71-72;  enclosed 
(1815).  31.  58;  buildings  more  than 
one  story  (plate  7),  36;  described  by 
Ruschenberger  (1836),  32;  described 
liy  Du  Petit-Thouars  (1837).  33. 

Quarters.     See  Living  quarters. 

Ravelins.  20. 

Removal  of  mission  to  Carmel.  17.  18.  19. 

Repairs  on  mission  (1824),  31. 

Restoration  of  stone  church  (1884).  41- 
42;  photographs  (plates  11.  12).  40. 

Richman,  cited,  32. 

Roof,  flat  on  earlv  building  (1771).  19; 
flat  of  clav  and  mud  (1773).  20,  45  :  of 
thatch  (1774),  20,  21.  45  ;  flat  earth  roof 
(  1774).  21  ;  church  roof  of  straw  (1786), 
22.  46;  stone  church  roof  of  tile.  24; 
arched  roof,  34;  roof  partly  fell  (1852), 
37;  in  ruins  (1874),  37-38;  roof  re- 
moved, 38;  shown  in  photographs 
(plates  9,  10),  39;  height  changed  dur- 
ing restoration  (1884),  41-42;  original 
lieight  determined,  52. 

Ruiz,  master  mason,  24. 

Ruschenberger,  quoted,  32.  71. 

Sacristy.  38.  58;  entrance  (plate  34).  64; 
window  in  (plate  29),  61;  lavabo  in 
(plate  35),  64;  roof  renewed.  39. 

Sailors,  cut  tinilier.  19. 

Sal.  quoted.  24. 

>San  .\ntonio  de   Padua  founded.  18. 

Sanctuary.  52. 

San  Fernando,  Mission,  carvings  similar 
to,  58;  College  of,  17. 

San  Francisco  Call,  cited,  57. 

San  Francisco  Mission.  24.  28. 

San  Luis  Obispo  Mission.  18. 

Santa  Clara  Mission,  24,  27. 

Secularization,  31-32. 

Serra,  17.  IS.  20,  21,  25  ;  as  church  builder 
(note  17),  24;  death  and  burial,  21-22; 
buried  in  adobe  church,  46;  remains, 
38;  hiu  of,  18,  45;  conjectural  location 
of  (pl;iie  44),  73;  room  or  cell  of,  45. 

Servants'  (|uarters  (1774),  21. 

Slevi)i,  photograiibs  by  (plates  42,  43),  70. 

Smith's  quarters,  21. 

Smythe.  VVm.,  {)6,  72;  sketch  ]i\  (pl.-ilc 
3),  29. 

Soldiers,  aid  in  building,  18,  19. 

.Soledad  secidarized,  34. 


Scirciitiiif,  Fatlicr,  41,  57. 

Sqiuire.     See  Stockade,  Quadrangle. 

St.  Joseph,  patron  of  mission,  17. 

Stairway,  to  tower,  52;  to  lialcony.  57;  to 
pulpit,  58. 

Stanford,  Mrs.  Leland,  41,  58. 

Stanford  University  Museum  (  plales  32. 

^33).  63,  58. 

Star  window,  52;  illustration  (plate  23). 
55,  74. 

Stock,  at  mission  (1834),  34. 

Stockade,  at  the  presidio  (.1770),  17; 
(1771),  19,  20,  45;  not  mentioned 
(1774),  45;  conjectural  location  (plate 

^44),  73. 

Stone,  church  referred  to  Ijy  Serra  ( note 
13),  22;  church,  23,  24;  church  under 
construction.  27 ;  used  in  church,  27 ; 
arches  shown  in  Perkins  photograph 
(plate  21),  54.     Sec  Cliurch,  Arches. 

Surgeon's  quarters,  21. 

Survey  of  mission  grounds,  "Alemany 
Plat"  (1854),  37;  reproduced  (  plate  5), 
30;  hv  J.  E.  Terrell  (1858),  37,  (plate 
6)  35;  by  Coy  (plate  45),  75. 

Svkes,  58.  65 ;  artist  of  Vancouver  expe- 
'dition,  24;  sketch  (plate  2),  26;  51,  58. 

Taber,  photographer,  38. 

Temporary  buildings,  at  Monterey 
(1770), "17;  at  Carmel  (1771),  19. 

Terrell,  surveyor,  58;  plat  (plate  6),  35. 

Thatch.     See  Roof. 

Tile,  roof  on  stone  church,  24,  37  ;  carried 
away,  38;  paving  in  baptistry,  57. 


Title  conlirmed  (  1859),  37. 

Towers,   descrilied,    52,    74 ;    contain    si.s 

1)ells,  34,  72. 
Turrill,  Chas.  B.,  39.  69. 
United  States,  58,  65,  71,  72:  survey  |)Iat 

(plate  6),  35;  conlirms  title  to  church 

(1859).  37. 
Vallejo,  Gen.  M.  G..  36. 
Vancouver,  at  San  Carlos  (1794),  24-28, 

65;  speaks  of  l)uilding  of  stone  church, 

27,  51. 
Vandalism.  38. 
Verger,  74. 
I'ia  CnuU  (1820),  31. 
Viceroy,  donation  to  mission,  18;  grant? 

permission  for  removal,  18. 
Victoria,  succeeds  Echeandia,  .32. 
Vischer,  Eduard,  38,  72. 
Vizcaino,  17,  25. 
Wagon  entrance  to  court,  71. 
Water,  needed  for  irrigation,  18;  plentv 

at  Carmel,  18-19. 
Watkins,    C.    E.,    photographer,    38,   41  ; 

photograph  by  (plate  9),  39. 
Whitew'ash,  used  in  interior  (1773),  20. 
Windows,  52;   (plates  27,  28),  60,  (plate 

29),  61  ;  barred  with  iron  ( 1836),  32. 
Women's  quarters   (1800),  28-31, 
Wood  carvings  in  chapel,  31. 
Wooden  buildings   (1771),  19.     See  also 

Buildings. 
Workshop,   at   Monterey    (1770),   17;   at 

Carmel  (1774),  20,  45. 


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